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Saturday, May 23, 2009
Isola Bella, Beautiful Island -- A Little Background
6:28 AM | 
Dana Kaplan,
Stresa Sights
In 1690, this is what Isola Bella looked liked from Stresa. Stresa is much changed; the island, not at all.
Isola Bella, beautiful island... It is, hands down, the main attraction to see when visiting the Stresa/Borromean Gulf area, and yet, ever since its construction in the late 1600s, it has received some pretty horrible reviews. There were some harsh critics, even then, here's what a few of them published about the island in their travel books:
Danish writer Friederike Brun, who visited in 1795, likened Isola Bella to a mushroom emerging from the water, and the garden to an "oversized cake."
William Hazlitt, in 1826, wrote he was "Utterly disappointed in the Borromean Isles. Isola Bella resembles a pyramid of sweetmeats ornamented with green festoons and flowers."
Joseph Woods wrote in 1810, "Isola Bella contains a magnificent villa of the Borromean family, in sublime bad taste both inside and out. "
Jacques Augustin Galiffe, in 1816, "Isola Bella is altogether artificial, and contains a large but ill-looking palace in the worst architectural taste..."
And take a look at this excerpt, written by Richard Bagot, in his 1908 book, The Lakes of Northern Italy:
Wow. But these descriptions, while certainly the opinions of the individual writers, for the most part can be said to be true. From a distance or close up, the palace and the gardens are completely out of scale, they seem to overflow the island on all sides. In between, where the Borromeans never succeeded in purchasing the land, the original medieval village still exists, wrapped over the palace as if it grew there, although in reality it was the palace that grew around the village.
Isola Bella looks today exactly as it did 300 years ago.
In this aerial view, the medieval village can be seen on the left, seemingly climbing up the palace.The plans for the island began simply enough:
Carlo Borromeo the Third bought the city of Stresa, and with it, some of the land on the island called Isola Inferiore, in 1630. A plan drawn in 1631 has this note written by him in the margin, "Plan of a small house, on Isola Inferiore in Lago Maggiore, and thus from now on the island will be called Isabella, since it is made to create a delightful garden of citrus and flowers and a residence for the pleasure and recreation of my lady the Countess Donna Isabella."
It was when Vitaliano the Sixth took over though, that the current vision began to take shape. And here's the thing, the thing that redeems the island, that takes it from garish ostentation to whimsy and, if not quite beauty, then at least fascination. The creation was always intended to entertain. Okay, certainly also to demonstrate the money and power of the Borromeo family, but its primary purpose, as thought out by Vitaliano, was to be a playground for the many noble guests who would visit it. It was meant to be a vision, an idea, over the top. It was he, working with noted architects of the day, who thought up the shell grotto, the ten-tiered garden, and the addition of the many symbolic and fanciful statues. In fact, it was decided that certain statues should be larger than originally intended, so that guests would have a more impressive approach to the island and recognize the statues sooner. Then, a further thought, it wasn't acceptable that guests would see only the backs of statues depending upon where they approached from, and at this point it was decided to increase the number of obelisks and spires, symmetrical from all sides.
Statues high atop the garden wall wave and welcome visitors arriving by boat. The unicorn, with his rider Love, is at the top.
Maybe some of those early travelers missed the point? Maybe I'm missing it? Non lo so. I don't know. My first impression of the island, palace, and gardens, was, and still is, that of a fairy tale, or of Alice in Wonderland. It's a place far removed from reality, and since that was its purpose and original goal, in this way I think it has succeeded quite admirably.
This is the view that one is greeted with after emerging into the gardens from the grotto passage.
In my mind, perhaps it was Charles Dickens, after visiting in 1844, who summed it up best:
"For however fanciful and fantastic the Isola Bella may be, and is, it still is beautiful."
White peacocks roam free and unafraid in the gardens.
This Dickens quote is used on the official tourism site for the island. On the site, you'll find information on tours, hours, and other facts about this very unique place. The Palazzo Borromeo is open to visitors from late March until the end of October. And it is a must see.
Web site: www.borromeoturismo.it
All photographs property of Dana Kaplan or the Borromeo Turismo Web site.
1690 view is a black and white photo of an oil painting by Gaspar Van Wittel, View of Isola Bella from Stresa, West Side, 1690. Painting and photo property of Gallery Carlo Orsi, Milano.
It was when Vitaliano the Sixth took over though, that the current vision began to take shape. And here's the thing, the thing that redeems the island, that takes it from garish ostentation to whimsy and, if not quite beauty, then at least fascination. The creation was always intended to entertain. Okay, certainly also to demonstrate the money and power of the Borromeo family, but its primary purpose, as thought out by Vitaliano, was to be a playground for the many noble guests who would visit it. It was meant to be a vision, an idea, over the top. It was he, working with noted architects of the day, who thought up the shell grotto, the ten-tiered garden, and the addition of the many symbolic and fanciful statues. In fact, it was decided that certain statues should be larger than originally intended, so that guests would have a more impressive approach to the island and recognize the statues sooner. Then, a further thought, it wasn't acceptable that guests would see only the backs of statues depending upon where they approached from, and at this point it was decided to increase the number of obelisks and spires, symmetrical from all sides.
Statues high atop the garden wall wave and welcome visitors arriving by boat. The unicorn, with his rider Love, is at the top.
A tour of Isola Bella begins by going through the Palazzo Borromeo, continuing through the grotto, and then into the gardens. The palace contains family hierlooms and treasures, and things of historic note, such as the tapestries in the long Sala di Arezzi, but the objects in the house, while interesting, are of the more normal and expected sort. The garden, with its layers, its tropical plants, its strange pseudo-greek-god theme, its white peacocks, and of course, rising above them all, the unicorn statue, ridden by Love, is the true star.
This is the view that one is greeted with after emerging into the gardens from the grotto passage.In my mind, perhaps it was Charles Dickens, after visiting in 1844, who summed it up best:
"For however fanciful and fantastic the Isola Bella may be, and is, it still is beautiful."
White peacocks roam free and unafraid in the gardens.
These other posts are related to Isola Bella or the other Borromean Islands, and may be of interest:
Isola dei Pescatori
The Grottoes of the Palazzo Borromeo
The Borromeo Tapestries
Wunder Kammer on Isola Bella
The Grottoes of the Palazzo Borromeo
The Borromeo Tapestries
Wunder Kammer on Isola Bella
Web site: www.borromeoturismo.it
All photographs property of Dana Kaplan or the Borromeo Turismo Web site.
1690 view is a black and white photo of an oil painting by Gaspar Van Wittel, View of Isola Bella from Stresa, West Side, 1690. Painting and photo property of Gallery Carlo Orsi, Milano.
Thursday, May 21, 2009
Biking, Hiking, Horses, And More
Okay... checklist for today's activities. Bring your mountain bike, your hiking shoes, your pulleys and ropes, and your wetsuit. Oh, and don't forget your saddle. That's because today we'll address some of the more intense outdoor activities available in the area. And for all of these you don't need to look any further than one source, a company called Bicico, which organizes group outings in all the aforementioned sports as well as others.Bicico is probably best known for their mountain biking equipment and excursions. They are located at the base of the cablecar at the Carciano imbarcadero. Mountain bikers, you rent your equipment, including your safety gear, ride the cableway to the summit of Mt. Mottarone, gear up, and then ride down the mountain to Stresa again. There are paths and groups for all levels, including some pretty extreme ones, not for the timid.
Hiking excursions also meet on Mt. Mottarone, with it's stunning views. But there are others, in the Parco Nazionale della Val Grande, the Natural Park of Veglia-Devero, and from Ossola to Val Vigezzo, lesser known but beautiful valleys.
Rock climbing novices can practice in groups with expert instructors at Parco Sasso, where the practice boulders are pink and grey limestone.
The wetsuit we brought with us today was for canyoning, which is a lot like white water rafting, except without the raft.
The gentler trails of Mottarone and the valleys are perfect for horseback riding. Again, whether you are a beginner or a seasoned rider, there's group for you, or lessons can be arranged.
Ready to go then? Here's the English homepage for Bicico: http://www.mountainbikeitaly.eu/. And, you really don't need to bring any equipment with you. Bicico will provide you with all that you need. All you need to bring is your enthusiasm.
Not exhausted? Want to try another sport? Return to the Top Ten Sports and Outdoor Activities List here.
Not exhausted? Want to try another sport? Return to the Top Ten Sports and Outdoor Activities List here.
All photos courtesy of Bicico Web site.
Labels:
outdoor activities
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
News Bites -- Little Bits Of News From Stresa
Just enough news to digest with a cup of cappuccino...There are big plans for Stresa's lakefront. According to Stresa's Mayor, Canio Di Milia, plans are
falling into place for the construction of a pool, to be located at the Carciano imbarcadero. Other plans call for the extension of the lungolago path to the Villa Aminta Hotel, increased parking at the zoo, and the renovation of the minigolf park, including a new beach area.
The Regina Palace Hotel has announced a summer schedule of free concerts, several times each
week, in the Nuova Sala Tiffany. Check the events schedule on the right column of this blog for the exact dates and times.
The Thursday farmers market is open again in Verbania, after having been closed for the winter. Slightly different from the other weekly town markets, this market offers
local produce to consumers, grown at nearby farms and sold fresh only in its season. This also eliminates the middle man, thus providing shoppers with freshness, low prices, and the satisfaction of helping local producers. Open every Thursday from 8.00 to 13.30, in the parking lot of Via Motta Fiume.
Stresa will again participate in the national competition called "Comune
Fioriti," in which homeowners, shopkeepers, and the city itself register their properties and pledge to decorate with flowers their balconies, terraces, gardens, businesses, even just flowerpots in doorways, all with the motive of offering to all a more beautiful city.
A wonderful article about Stresa's own Marco Aghemio, in Yacht Digest magazine. The magazine
featured Marco and the work he does in the cantiere he founded seven years ago. Marco specializes in the restoration and maintenance of wooden motor boats, most specially the Riva Ariston line. Think 1950s, think George Clooney, think polished wood and turquoise seats, and you've got the idea. If this is your kind of boat you can contact Marco at: Cantiere Aghemio Marco, via per Binda 6, 28838 Stresa (VB), tel. 347 9202648, fax+39/02-7004411077 Internet:www.cantiereaghemio.com e-mail: marcoaghemio@gmail.com.
falling into place for the construction of a pool, to be located at the Carciano imbarcadero. Other plans call for the extension of the lungolago path to the Villa Aminta Hotel, increased parking at the zoo, and the renovation of the minigolf park, including a new beach area.The Regina Palace Hotel has announced a summer schedule of free concerts, several times each
week, in the Nuova Sala Tiffany. Check the events schedule on the right column of this blog for the exact dates and times.The Thursday farmers market is open again in Verbania, after having been closed for the winter. Slightly different from the other weekly town markets, this market offers
local produce to consumers, grown at nearby farms and sold fresh only in its season. This also eliminates the middle man, thus providing shoppers with freshness, low prices, and the satisfaction of helping local producers. Open every Thursday from 8.00 to 13.30, in the parking lot of Via Motta Fiume.Stresa will again participate in the national competition called "Comune
Fioriti," in which homeowners, shopkeepers, and the city itself register their properties and pledge to decorate with flowers their balconies, terraces, gardens, businesses, even just flowerpots in doorways, all with the motive of offering to all a more beautiful city.A wonderful article about Stresa's own Marco Aghemio, in Yacht Digest magazine. The magazine
featured Marco and the work he does in the cantiere he founded seven years ago. Marco specializes in the restoration and maintenance of wooden motor boats, most specially the Riva Ariston line. Think 1950s, think George Clooney, think polished wood and turquoise seats, and you've got the idea. If this is your kind of boat you can contact Marco at: Cantiere Aghemio Marco, via per Binda 6, 28838 Stresa (VB), tel. 347 9202648, fax+39/02-7004411077 Internet:www.cantiereaghemio.com e-mail: marcoaghemio@gmail.com.
Labels:
news and information
Sunday, May 17, 2009
Antiques And Collectibles
I have nothing against snow globes. Or key chains. Or souvenir shops. Honest. I myself have a collection of souvenir pens that I'm extremely proud of. You know the kind I mean? Where the top part of the pen is filled with some sort of liquid, and something inside, indicative of the place you bought it, slides back and forth? I have over 50 pens, from all around the world, and every last one of them I myself bought at a typical souvenir shop. My point is, though, once you've exhausted your craving for a snow globe or a back scratcher, or whatever it is that you collect, then, stop shopping in those shops. Then, take some time and look, really look at the other stores in Stresa. The first time I did this, I made a conscious effort to not see the usual shops. And a conscious effort to really look at the more unique stores in town.
What did I see? Beautiful items. Unique. Carefully chosen and artfully displayed. Special items. Some expensive and many not. Many old and others new. Any of them would be a special momento indeed...
In the hopes of encouraging you to do the same, here are a few of the shops selling antiques and collectible items in centro Stresa.
Cartolibreria de Mauri, in Piazza Cadorna, specializes in handcrafted writing goods and collectibles from the middle of the twentieth century. The back wall of his window is covered in samples of his papers. Outside the shop, in the piazza, he has racks set up of prints both old and new, of the lake. Stationery from here would make a great gift for someone, wouldn't it? Or how about a metal tin to keep your restaurant cards, receipts, and brochures in?
Terra e Fuoco means Earth and Fire, which are the necessary elements to create what they specialize in, pottery and ceramics from many different regions in Italy. The selection always changes, based upon what they find, and you can buy just one piece, or an entire set. Terra e Fuoco is on Via P. Tomaso, 4, very close to the lake.
I really liked this collection of antique corkscrews at Epoque, on Via Pittore Luigi Bolongaro. These were reasonably priced, small, and I thought what a
cool gift for a wine lover, or to display on your own wine rack. In his other window, Epoque's owner had a similarly impressive display of old coffee grinders. And on his front door, a sign that if you didn't see him, perhaps he was working in the laboratory. Or, it said, you could go and ask for him at Bar Bolongaro.
This is one of the windows at Antiques and More, on Via P. Tomaso. In addition to a constantly changing offering of estate and antique jewelry they also sell paintings, bronzes, and furniture.
All of these shops are located right in centro Stresa. And they represent only a few on the fun and fine vendors selling all sorts of things that aren't snow globes. A couple of other places we've already visited on the blog are Wunder Kammer on Isola Bella, and the Alessi Outlet in Omegna. Check out all the shopping posts here.
cool gift for a wine lover, or to display on your own wine rack. In his other window, Epoque's owner had a similarly impressive display of old coffee grinders. And on his front door, a sign that if you didn't see him, perhaps he was working in the laboratory. Or, it said, you could go and ask for him at Bar Bolongaro.
This is one of the windows at Antiques and More, on Via P. Tomaso. In addition to a constantly changing offering of estate and antique jewelry they also sell paintings, bronzes, and furniture.All of these shops are located right in centro Stresa. And they represent only a few on the fun and fine vendors selling all sorts of things that aren't snow globes. A couple of other places we've already visited on the blog are Wunder Kammer on Isola Bella, and the Alessi Outlet in Omegna. Check out all the shopping posts here.
Labels:
shopping
Friday, May 15, 2009
Toma Cheese
Toma Alpe Veglia (left) and Toma alle Vinacce di Barolo (right).
Do you like cheese? I like cheese. A LOT. Maybe you remember the eight cheese dinner I attended. Or the wine and cheese course. So imagine my excitement when a friend told me about a cheese shop in Verbania that I was unaware of. La Casera, in the center of Verbania Intra, only a few streets from the Intra imbarcadero and the bus lines. La Casera specializes in Piemontese cheeses. And the most Piemontese of the Piemontese cheeses is Toma.
It is on Alpine meadows, such as this one in northern Piemonte, that Toma is made.
Toma is a cow’s milk cheese is made throughout the Italian Alps. In the past, it often substituted for meat in those isolated regions. And also due to that isolation, many towns developed their own version of Toma; today there are 20 that have been awarded the DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) mark, with the best considered to be those that come from mountain villages around Novara, Vercelli, Biella, Torino, and Cuneo.
Customers wait to buy cheese at the Friday market in Stresa.
Toma is readily available in the Stresa Friday markets, I've bought delicious chunks of it there. So when here, if you like cheese, like I do, buy a piece of Toma, some bread, some fruit, a bottle of wine, and find a bench on the lungolago for a little Piemontese picnic. And when in Verbania, stop by La Casera to see, learn, and taste more.
I appreciate learning about one thing at a time. Toma per esempio, for example. Then I'll be, not an expert, but knowledgeable at least, about this one thing. I'd like nothing more than to go to La Casera and try and compare several versions of these Toma. Here's the Web site: www.formaggidieros.it They have a wonderful selection and great English descriptions of cheeses.
Wednesday, May 13, 2009
Inbox
So many of my readers are heading to Stresa these days! And with their last minute planning of course they have many questions. Let's look at a few of the most recent ones here, in the hopes they'll be helpful to others.Q. We are planning to visit Stresa for a week starting 25 May. How is the weather around that time?
A. In the past couple of weeks Stresa has had warm weather, but about half of the days have had some rain. The rain hasn't lasted all day... On the clear days it is beautiful. Lovely weather to eat lunch outside, and a little chillier in the evenings. The end of May should continue much the same. You may experience everything from very warm to chilly to rainy. I hope more of the first...
Q. Thanks so much for your informative blog... We arrive June 13th. We have a very modest list of things to do (thankfully, no 'must see it all' travelers among us) but wonder about whether it's necessary to book some outings in advance, like boat trips to the islands (love the idea of lingering on Isola Pescatori!) or the cablecar to Mt. Mottarone. Since we are only in town for the one week we don't want to, uh... miss the boat!
A. Ferry trips to the islands, or the cablecar, cannot be booked in advance. You can buy a ticket earlier in the day for a certain time, if you are worried about it being busy when you want to go, but of course that will mean an extra trip for someone to the station to purchase those tickets. I would however, suggest that you arrive a little earlier for the cablecar in the summer, as it can be crowded... Another thought, with ten of you it may be less expensive to take your own water taxi to the islands.
Q. Is the Oriental Express restaurant [at the Stresa Train Station] a Chinese restaurant?
A: No, The Orient Express serves fare quite traditional for the area -- pizzas and pastas. Its name is a reference to the famous train that ran from Paris to Istanbul. But if you were hoping that it were an Oriental restaurant, don't despair. The Stresa area has several ethnic restaurants of its own; so you can satisfy that craving for sushi or fajitas, even when you're in Italy. Here are three local favorites:
A. In the past couple of weeks Stresa has had warm weather, but about half of the days have had some rain. The rain hasn't lasted all day... On the clear days it is beautiful. Lovely weather to eat lunch outside, and a little chillier in the evenings. The end of May should continue much the same. You may experience everything from very warm to chilly to rainy. I hope more of the first...
Q. Thanks so much for your informative blog... We arrive June 13th. We have a very modest list of things to do (thankfully, no 'must see it all' travelers among us) but wonder about whether it's necessary to book some outings in advance, like boat trips to the islands (love the idea of lingering on Isola Pescatori!) or the cablecar to Mt. Mottarone. Since we are only in town for the one week we don't want to, uh... miss the boat!
A. Ferry trips to the islands, or the cablecar, cannot be booked in advance. You can buy a ticket earlier in the day for a certain time, if you are worried about it being busy when you want to go, but of course that will mean an extra trip for someone to the station to purchase those tickets. I would however, suggest that you arrive a little earlier for the cablecar in the summer, as it can be crowded... Another thought, with ten of you it may be less expensive to take your own water taxi to the islands.
Q. Is the Oriental Express restaurant [at the Stresa Train Station] a Chinese restaurant?
A: No, The Orient Express serves fare quite traditional for the area -- pizzas and pastas. Its name is a reference to the famous train that ran from Paris to Istanbul. But if you were hoping that it were an Oriental restaurant, don't despair. The Stresa area has several ethnic restaurants of its own; so you can satisfy that craving for sushi or fajitas, even when you're in Italy. Here are three local favorites:
Izumi Japanese Restaurant
C.so Mameli, 191
28921 Verbania (VB)
http://www.izumi.it/
Mikonos Greek Restaurant
Via Tonazzi Camillo, 5
28921 Verbania (VB)
http://www.mikonos.com
OltreConfine Mexican Restaurant
4, Piazza S. Carlo
28832 Belgirate (VB)
Q. As we will be in Stresa for only two days, is it worth going to Locarno??
A. If you will only be in Stresa for two days the YOU MUST stay in Stresa! Save Locarno (which is about an hour away on the Swiss side of Lago Maggiore) for another trip, and spend your two days seeing the islands, one of the famous gardens, or Santa Caterina. See what's here while you're here!
To those of you who have written in to ask questions... I hope that Stresa Sights has been of help to you. And thanks to all those of you who have written with comments and compliments; it's wonderful to know that this is appreciated and enjoyed. Thanks also to my colleague at Stresa's news blog, stresaduepuntozero.com, for continued help and support, and for recently adding Stresa Sights to his blog, so that the Stresiani can also see what we're attempting to do for the city.
Labels:
letters from readers
Monday, May 11, 2009
If You Had Been Here This Weekend...
If you had been fortunate enough to be in Stresa this past weekend you would have had the opportunity to do, among other things, the following:
Or...
You could have walked along the lungolago on Sunday, trying and buying foods of the region, during the Arti e Sapori tra Monti e Lago festival, Arts and Flavors Between Mountains and Lake. While strolling you would have tasted cheeses, salamis, honey, olive oils, and other products typically from the area. Yes.. there was wine too...
Or...
You could have watched the spectacle in Piazza Marconi on Saturday morning, when, for the first time, the Festa della Polizia di Stato, the Police of the VCO Territory, gave both residents and tourists a chance to see their uniforms, their vehicles, and their machinery up close, and the opportunity to thank them for their constant vigilance and protection.
Or...
Not forgetting the other Festa this weekend, la Festa della Mamma, Mother's Day, you could have found Mom a gift at the arts part of the Arti e Sapori tra Monti e Lago fair, where artists and craftspeople from the region sold handmade jewelry, dolls, ceramics, paintings, and all manner of artworks.
You could have heard the Michael Nyman Band at the Palazzo dei Congressi, Saturday at 5 pm, when the celebrated pianist and composer performed Draughtsman’s Contract, Prospero’s Books, Memorial, The Piano, and Mozart 252 as part of the Settimane dei Musicale, the Stresa Festival.
Or...
You could have walked along the lungolago on Sunday, trying and buying foods of the region, during the Arti e Sapori tra Monti e Lago festival, Arts and Flavors Between Mountains and Lake. While strolling you would have tasted cheeses, salamis, honey, olive oils, and other products typically from the area. Yes.. there was wine too...Or...
You could have watched the spectacle in Piazza Marconi on Saturday morning, when, for the first time, the Festa della Polizia di Stato, the Police of the VCO Territory, gave both residents and tourists a chance to see their uniforms, their vehicles, and their machinery up close, and the opportunity to thank them for their constant vigilance and protection.Or...
Not forgetting the other Festa this weekend, la Festa della Mamma, Mother's Day, you could have found Mom a gift at the arts part of the Arti e Sapori tra Monti e Lago fair, where artists and craftspeople from the region sold handmade jewelry, dolls, ceramics, paintings, and all manner of artworks.
And that's just a portion of what was happening in this one little town, on this one weekend. And if you weren't here, don't worry, next weekend the Israeli Philharmonic Brass Quintet performs at Villa Pallavicino, Eric Dalest will give an organ concert at the Chiesa Sant'Ambrosio, and the Giardino Botanico Alpinia has two days of special exhibits and programs planned.
Labels:
summer
Friday, May 8, 2009
Lago di Mergozzo
In fact, there was a time, long ago for us, but not so long ago geologically speaking, when Mergozzo and Maggiore were connected. Mergozzo was the farthest point of the northern arm of Lago Maggiore. Over the ages, repeated flooding of the Toce River deposited sediment that eventually formed a narrow strip of land that cut Mergozzo off from the rest of the lake. Soon Mergozzo was cut off from the Toce as well. This strip of land, geologically an alluvial plain, is where the village of Fondotoce is located today, in between the two lakes, at the southern end of the oval. On the other side of the oval is the town of Mergozzo.
Looking down at the town of Mergozzo, Lago di Mergozzo, and in the distance, Lago Maggiore.This lake is so small that you can see all of it at once, without even turning your head. Its shape always reminds me of a cameo, and the little town of Mergozzo is a lovely little clasp at its top. Mergozzo has only about 2,500 residents, but swells in the summer with the influx of tourists and campers in the several nearby camping villages.
View of Lago di Mergozzo from the promenade, looking south.What I like best about Mergozzo is the silence and the stillness. Motorboats are banned from the lake; in fact, I've never seen a boat on it at all, although there are some small rowboats, barca a remi, along the dock. Sometimes I think they're just for show. And the water, it's as smooth as glass. There's a mountain, Monte Orfano, which protects Mergozzo from the strong winds on Lago Maggiore. So while Maggiore has that background sound of waves and wind, of water crashing against the piers and walls, Mergozzo has a calmness that makes one want to whisper.
Via Pallanza is the name of the street that forms the promenade along the lake. There are a nice selection of restaurants, bars, and a few small hotels. At the far end of the curve is a birreria that I like. With its dozens of different beers from around the world, the birreria is a little unusual in wine-loving Italy. But the beer selections are chosen with as much care as the wines, and its terrace is casual and comfortable. And si, they do have wine as well.
From the birreria at the western end of the promenade, at Piazza Cavour, the lights of Mergozzo twinkle.
I love sitting on the tiny lakefront anywhere along this curve; my favorite time is sunset. Go for an aperitivo, and watch the sun go down before dinner. It sets the mood for a truly tranquil evening, because the place does have this sort of Disney World, too-cute-to-be-true feel about it.
At Piazza Cavour.
At Piazza Cavour.
Mergozzo is best reached by car. Take a look at the map below and you see that one drives right past Lago di Mergozzo, over the alluvial plain, on the way to and from Verbania from Stresa. But you can't see it. And you won't see it unless you take the little detour off the main road, for just a couple of miles, and discover this little jewel hidden behind the mountain.
From Stresa you can also reach Mergozzo by train, the train for Domodossola stops in Mergozzo, and by bus, by switching buses in Verbania.
From Stresa you can also reach Mergozzo by train, the train for Domodossola stops in Mergozzo, and by bus, by switching buses in Verbania.
Arial photo courtesy of Commune di Mergozzo.
Labels:
day trips
Thursday, May 7, 2009
Swimming Pools and Tennis Courts
Let's talk about swimming and tennis at the same time, since for the most part, you can arrange to do both in the same places. A lot of the larger hotels, in Stresa but also in the neighboring towns of Baveno and Verbania, have swimming pools and tennis courts on the property. So no problem for anyone staying in one of these hotels.
For those not staying in a hotel like that however, it is still possible for you to use the facilities at many of them. While it is not often mentioned on the hotel Web sites, it is common practice that access to the pool tennis courts can be granted for a small per person fee. The concierge in your hotel should be able to contact one of the large hotels for you to find out the particulars. Or don't be afraid to call them yourselves; all have multilingual employees answering the phones.
So if a day is particularly hot, or you need a day off in the middle of a hectic sight-seeing schedule, or if it's not a vacation for you unless you can hit some tennis balls, you can do these things, even if not at your hotel. In addition, you'll get to feel like a guest for a day at one of the fancier hotels in town. Here are links to a few of the large hotels in Stresa with swimming pools and tennis courts.
For those not staying in a hotel like that however, it is still possible for you to use the facilities at many of them. While it is not often mentioned on the hotel Web sites, it is common practice that access to the pool tennis courts can be granted for a small per person fee. The concierge in your hotel should be able to contact one of the large hotels for you to find out the particulars. Or don't be afraid to call them yourselves; all have multilingual employees answering the phones.
So if a day is particularly hot, or you need a day off in the middle of a hectic sight-seeing schedule, or if it's not a vacation for you unless you can hit some tennis balls, you can do these things, even if not at your hotel. In addition, you'll get to feel like a guest for a day at one of the fancier hotels in town. Here are links to a few of the large hotels in Stresa with swimming pools and tennis courts.
Hotel des Iles Borromees
Hotel Regina Palace
Hotel Aminta
Of course, we have been speaking only about swimming pools here. Stresa also has a beach area on the lakefront, and there is another in Baveno, only a few miles away. We'll talk about those another time, ben presto, very soon.
Want to try a different sport now? Return to the main Top Ten Outdoor Sports and Activities page here.
Want to try a different sport now? Return to the main Top Ten Outdoor Sports and Activities page here.
Photos from Hotel Regina Palace Web site.
Tuesday, May 5, 2009
Golf
Don't worry about bringing your clubs; you can rent everything you need for a day of golf at several public golf courses in the Stresa area. These three have combined their marketing efforts by creating a joint Web site, Lago Maggiore Golf, that links (pun intended) you to the greens.
Golf Verbania has two 9-hole courses, on beautiful flat terrain near Lago Mergozzo.
Golf des Iles Borromees is an 18-hole course in the hills above Lago Maggiore.
And Golf Alpino di Stresa, the course where the very first Italian Open was held, is a 9-hole course in Gignese.
All of these clubs have English versions of their Web sites. All the sites offer directions for getting there. None are far, but you will need a car. If you are staying in a hotel arrange for taxi service to bring you to the club and back. You can do the driving (pun intended again) when you're there.
Here are a few photos, just to get you into the swing (really bad pun, and I'm finished now) of it all.
Golf and Sporting Club Verbania
Buca (hole) 18 at Golf des Iles Borromees
Golf Alpino di Stresa
Here are a few photos, just to get you into the swing (really bad pun, and I'm finished now) of it all.
Golf and Sporting Club Verbania
Buca (hole) 18 at Golf des Iles Borromees
Golf Alpino di Stresa
While you can rent clubs, you should of course bring your own shoes if you intend to play golf. The golf clubs are very accustomed to tourists, and should be able to assist you with all of your needs.
Want to try another sport now? Return to the Top Ten Outdoor Sports and Activities page here.
Want to try another sport now? Return to the Top Ten Outdoor Sports and Activities page here.
All photos courtesy of the golf clubs.
Labels:
outdoor activities
Windsurfing
Positioned as it is between the mountains, Lago Maggiore is often windy. It's windy enough where the locals have different names for different kinds of winds, denoting where they have come from, or how they feel, or the weather they bring. One thing they all bring is waves, making the lake perfect for windsurfing. The place to do this around here is at La Scuola di Windsurf, in Belgirate, which is just south of Stresa on your way to Arona. Private or group lessons, at any level from beginner through certification levels, can be arranged at your convenience; rentals can also be arranged.Scuola di Windsurf
Phone: 327/6958205
E-mail: tma@hotmail.it
Web site: www.themistralaustralia.com
Ready to try another sport? Return to the Top Ten Sports and Outdoor Activities page here.
Photo courtesy of Scuola di Windsurf Web site.
Monday, May 4, 2009
Letter From the Editor -- Time For Some Top Ten Lists
Here in West Chester, (Dub-C as we sometimes call it), my life has been very busy, sono stata mooolto occupata. There are freelance projects I've been working on, and in the backyard, there is a hole, a circle 12 feet in diameter and 6 inches deep, waiting to be transformed into a terrace/fire pit. And a lovely thing, a fun dinner in West Chester with Diana, who is taking a much-needed break from Creative Structures and the renovation of her Baur B&B to visit with her family here in Chester County. But, in Stresa, it is vacation time, summer has begun. And there are so many things to do there also, so many things I want to tell you about. I just posted a list of what I think to be the Top Ten main attractions in Stresa, and I'm thinking that it may be helpful to cover some other subjects in this same way. Next, look for a Top Ten list of the summer sports and outdoor activities that can be enjoyed around Lago Maggiore. I'll post the list first; please check back often as I'll write a series of articles in these days to detail the ideas on the list. It'll be nice for me to think about hitting some golf balls in Italy, that type of hole instead of the very large one in my backyard...
Saturday, May 2, 2009
FYI -- Top Things To See In Stresa
Tourist season, traditionally April 1st through October 31st here, is underway. Many of my readers are planning their first trips to Stresa. A question that I'm often asked is this: "I've heard Stresa is beautiful, and popular, but what are the main sights? What are the must-see things?"
So here is your starting point, your quick checklist of the main attractions in Stresa and its environs, including one or two popular day trips to take from here.
The Borromean Islands: We'll count them as one although they are truly three distinct attractions. Isola Bella, Isola dei Pescatori, and Isola Madre.
The Stresa/Mottarone Cableway: Like the islands, this is a place that to me is composed of unique elements all in the same location. There is the cableway ride itself, the Giardino Botanico Alpinia at the midstation, and Mt. Mottarone and Alpyland at the top.
Villa Taranto: 15 hectares of spectacular English Gardens in Pallanza, a 15-minute boat ride from Stresa.
The Lago Maggiore Express: This day trip takes you first by train through the Italian Alps, charming mountain villages, the Swiss Alps, and finally back to Stresa by boat on Lago Maggiore, with the freedom to get off and on both the train and the boat in certain towns.
Hermitage of Santa Caterina del Sasso: The approach to this 12th century abbey from the water is wonderful, the abbey, clinging to the side of the rocky mountain, is magical, and it is one of the most popular venues of the Stresa Music Festival.
The Laveno "Bucket" Lift: 1,100 meters up to the top of Sasso del Ferro mountain -- in a "bucket." There's no other way to get views like this experience!
Lago Orta: Lago Orta is a worthwhile day trip. It has its own character, its own charm, its own island, San Giulia, and a World Heritage Sacre Monte site. During the summer season there is a very convenient and inexpensive bus from Stresa to Orta from the Stresa imbarcadero parking lot.
La Rocca d'Angera: Also called Borromeo Castle, the 14th century fortress in Angera is completely preserved in its original state and has spectacular views of the lake, as well as several museums including the Doll Museum.
The Lido: Yes, the beach! It's summer after all, and the beach in Baveno has sand, chairs, a bar, a restaurant, volleyball games to watch, and cool lake breezes. But it's not the only sand here on which to lay your towel. You can find several nice beaches along the shore, and Stresa's pool, La Baia Rosa.
Markets: Every large town in the area has its own market day; Stresa's market is on Friday. The largest market around here takes place each Sunday morning in Cannobio, the last town before one reaches the Swiss border on the lake. And here's a schedule of other market days in other towns.
There you have it. My checklist of what you should see if you are spending your first few days here. And of course, this is just the tip of the iceberg. This is only a partial list of places... it doesn't include restaurants, or experiences, or activities, or piazzas, or shopping, or wine, or... well, you get the idea. Follow the links for more details. Sometimes they will take you to other links, to other details. Use the search feature on the blog; it can be very helpful. And take a look at some of our other lists for more ideas:
Outdoor Sports And Activities
Five Gardens Of Stresa -- A Planning Guide
Three Day Trips To Switzerland
Outdoor Sports And Activities
Five Gardens Of Stresa -- A Planning Guide
Three Day Trips To Switzerland
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STRESA SIGHTS by DANA KAPLAN
