From the top of Mt. Mottarone you can see seven lakes. Lago Maggiore is the largest of course. And the smallest is Lago di Mergozzo. Only 1 1/2 miles long by 1/2 mile wide, this little oval lake is a peaceful little break from the relative hubbub of Stresa and Lago Maggiore, and only minutes away from them.

In fact, there was a time, long ago for us, but not so long ago geologically speaking, when Mergozzo and Maggiore were connected. Mergozzo was the farthest point of the northern arm of Lago Maggiore. Over the ages, repeated flooding of the Toce River deposited sediment that eventually formed a narrow strip of land that cut Mergozzo off from the rest of the lake. Soon Mergozzo was cut off from the Toce as well. This strip of land, geologically an alluvial plain, is where the village of Fondotoce is located today, in between the two lakes, at the southern end of the oval. On the other side of the oval is the town of Mergozzo.


This lake is so small that you can see all of it at once, without even turning your head. Its shape always reminds me of a cameo, and the little town of Mergozzo is a lovely little clasp at its top. Mergozzo has only about 2,500 residents, but swells in the summer with the influx of tourists and campers in the several nearby camping villages.


What I like best about Mergozzo is the silence and the stillness. Motorboats are banned from the lake; in fact, I've never seen a boat on it at all, although there are some small rowboats, barca a remi, along the dock. Sometimes I think they're just for show. And the water, it's as smooth as glass. There's a mountain, Monte Orfano, which protects Mergozzo from the strong winds on Lago Maggiore. So while Maggiore has that background sound of waves and wind, of water crashing against the piers and walls, Mergozzo has a calmness that makes one want to whisper.

Via Pallanza is the name of the street that forms the promenade along the lake. There are a nice selection of restaurants, bars, and a few small hotels. At the far end of the curve is a birreria that I like. With its dozens of different beers from around the world, the birreria is a little unusual in wine-loving Italy. But the beer selections are chosen with as much care as the wines, and its terrace is casual and comfortable. And si, they do have wine as well.