Isola dei Pescatori

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Isola dei Pescatori

2:36 PM |

Dana Kaplan, Stresa Sights |

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The only one of the three Borromean islands that is not still owned by the royal Borromeo family, Isola dei Pescatori is charming and fascinating. And small. Very small. Piccolissima small. The island measures 350 meters by 100 meters. Now a part of the city of Stresa, Pescatore is also called Isola Superiore; make a mental note that you may see it listed in this way at the boat stations. It has been inhabited for about 1000 years, as has Stresa. Nowadays there are about 50 permanent residents, and while fishing is still a great occupation on the lake, the main business these days is catering to the tourists who visit each day.

Could you spend a whole day on this little speck of an island? While most don't, while most tourists jump on and off the ferries like local stops and also visit the other Borromean islands, Isola Bella and Isola Madre, in one day, if you enjoy the slow approach, like I do, and have the time, like I did, si, yes, I think it's possible to enjoy several hours here.

The 10 minute boat trip from Stresa costs 6 euro for a round trip ticket. Arrive late morning. There are many restaurants, cafes, and bars on the island. I lost count at about 20. Start with a cappuccino or a juice. The temperature on the island may well be warmer than back in Stresa proper, as Stresa sits in the shade of Mt. Mottarone for part of the day, while tiny Pescatori bakes in the strong sun reflected by the surrounding water. Enjoy the warming day, relax.

Isola Madre, as seen from Isola Pescatore.

Take your time and stroll all around the island. Of course you can cover every street, notice tiny details. Of course there are no cars, and therefore the streets are more like narrow alleys, and quiet. Notice how the main entrances of the houses are on inside streets, and higher than the perimeter. This is to protect them from the floods which frequently occur. A gravel path travels around the outside of the island. There are benches placed here and there. Stroll slowly and take in the 360 degree view. Sit in the sun and relax some more. Feed some ducks.

These guys followed me through the narrow street until a cat scared them away.

Choose a restaurant. Many of course specialize in fish, but you'll find the usual assortment of pizza, panini, and pasta as well. Casabella, located just to the right of the boat station, is a Michelin 2009 selection.

This is Ristorante Unione, located just to the left of the boat station. It is quite popular, as it hangs out over the water for a fantastic view, and the glass walls protect from wind and spray.

In the afternoon visit the Church of San Vittore, which you'll find high in the center of the town. It dates back to the 11th century. There are traces here of an even more ancient chapel that may date from the 9th century, when it was most likely built for an order of Scozzola monks. Browse through the souvenir and craft shops. Maybe have another espresso before catching an afternoon ferry back to the relative activity in Stresa. Be careful to check the departure times of the last ferry. If you miss it, you'll need to take a water taxi, which will cost a bit more.

Or maybe enjoy a glass of "fresh squished" orange juice before you leave...

There are two hotels on Isola dei Pescatori, Hotel Belvedere, and Hotel Verbano. Many restaurants remain open into the evening for dinner during the summer months; should you chose to dine in one of them you'll need to arrange for a water taxi for your return; many of the restaurants have arrangements with taxis for just this service.

Visiting Isola Bella also? Read about it here.