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Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Summer Foods

This plate of grilled mixed vegetables was from Caffe Bolongaro, in Stresa, and I ate it while listening to the blues band play. Just the perfect thing for a warm summer evening.

Being summer, many of us eat more lightly than usual.

But of course I eat, so here is a selection of the photos I do have of some of my favorite summer foods and summer eating memories from this August in Stresa:

Illustrating once again the Italian attention to presentation, this beautiful sliced melon and prosecco with fruit juice was from a small restaurant in a parking lot where I waited for my return bus from Lake Orta to Stresa. It came with the nuts and chips, and I paid 8 euro for it all. By the time the bus arrived I was cool and very relaxed.

At a special restaurant we shared the prosecco risotto. It was served with a thin slice of edible gold foil on top. The risotto was creamy and delicious... the restaurant was Trattoria Vigezzina, in Masera.

Ah... Milano!! While eating our way through the city one day (definitely worth another post sometime), we stumbled onto Pescheria Spadari, a famous old seafood shop that, only one day a week, served a quick lunch to customers. All sorts of Milanese packed the small shop, eating fritto misto, mixed fried seafood, from cone-shaped paper cups, while leaning on the tall counters.

This is what I call the 'mountain of meat'... Italians call it affettati, slices. Served as a primo piatto, or as an aperitivo, here we have a selection of meats and salami. The mountain of meat is always a favorite of mine.

A very pretty cold dish, this is an eggplant and ricotta lasagna salad that I enjoyed for lunch on Ferragosto Sunday.

We didn't have any gold foil, but we did make our own version of prosecco risotto one day. It was every bit as wonderful, and the strawberries, they were better than gold.

Even simply like this, I find that it is always possible to find food that is fresh and delicious. You will too, by being adventurous a bit and trying all. Buon appetito!







Sunday, August 29, 2010

The Stresa Festival -- Settimane Musicali di Stresa

Quintet Bislacco, who performed at the Castello Visconteo di Vogogna.


This is its 49th year, but I really believe the Stresa Festival, the Settimane Musicali di Stresa, is finally beginning to get the recognition that it so deserves. From the caliber of the musicians, to the variety of musical genres and nationalities represented, to the venues, so magical that the music seems almost too much of a gift on top of such beauty, there is simply nothing anywhere like the Stresa Festival. Much promotion in recent years, as well as the assistance of social networks of bloggers and sites such as Facebook, have finally finally finally made the festival as well known as it should be.

Ensemble Berlin play Gershwin and Ravel at Villadossola.


Let's list just a few of the many, many performances:

Saturday, 28 August: Thomas Zehetmair on Violin, J.S. Bach Sonate and Partite, at the Chiesa del Crocifisso at Collegio Rosmini.

Sunday, 29 August: Welser-Most and the Cleveland Orchestra, at the Palazzo dei Congressi Auditorium, playing Schubert and Strauss.

Tuesday, 31 August: The Borodin Quartet, in the Salone degli Arazzi, Isola Bella.

Wednesday, 1 September: Violino and Pianoforte, at Villa Ponti, Arona.


Thomas Zehetmair plays Bach violin solos at the Chiesa del Collegio Rosmini over two nights.

I hope you get the idea. These listed above take place in the span of a few DAYS; can you imagine an entire summer's worth?

And don't forget one of the highlights of every summer... the amazing Bach solo suites for violincello at the medieval Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso. Absolutely took my breath away when I went last year.

If you're planning to be in Stresa during a summer, bookmark these pages. And make a performance a part of your trip.

Or bookmark the Festival home page: http://www.stresafestival.eu/




Friday, August 27, 2010

Food Festivals



There are so many different food festivals throughout the summer in Stresa and the surrounding towns. Like this one last night, and again this evening, the annual Cibi di Strada, Street Food, in Intra. In four areas around Intra -- Piazza Ranzoni, Piazza San Vittore, Via San Vittore, and Corso Mameli -- between 6 and 10 pm, more than a dozen restaurants set up serving tables outside. One could purchase tickets, 10 euro for three, and then exchange each for a plate of food. Pick up your wine glass and its holder to wear around your neck. Each glass of wine was also one ticket. Then sit at one of the tables also set up for dining, or wander to the next serving station, or walk across the piazza and eat on a bench by the lake.


Want your mouth to water? Listen to some of these offerings... From Gattabuia: Arancini di Riso con Gorgonzola e Panatura di Riso Venere; from Il Ristorante Piccolo Lago: Spiedino Marinato, Batida de Coco; and from La Pesa, the very intriguing Sandwich con Gelato al Parmigiano Reggiano e Prosciutto di Parma. Yes, that's an ice cream sandwich made with parmesan and prosciutto flavored gelatos.



Thursday, August 26, 2010

August In Stresa -- Berlusconi?!!




Google Earth gives us this view of Villa Correnti.


Yep... You and I are not the only ones who appreciate Lago Maggiore's charms in the summer. For a couple of years now Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi's family has been vacationing at their villa in Lesa, just a few kilometers south of Stresa along the lake, on the way to Arona.

Guest writer Tony, who also vacations off and on at his own home in Lesa, had some fun playing paparazzo for us and sends along this eyewitness report and photos from the gate of the villa:

____________________

Prime Minister in Residence in Lesa



Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi has been at his family villa in Lesa, south of Stresa, on and off during August. When he is in residence, the Italian flag flies from the mast on the lake at the edge of the property and a Coast Guard boat patrols offshore. The property, known as Villa Correnti, was previously owned by the Garavoglia family that created Campari, the Italian aperitif.

Traffic on via Sempion, SS33, the main road up the western side of Lago Maggiore is often slowed by the many polizia and press cars that crowd the highway that is quite narrow near the entrance to his villa. This has exacerbated an already bad situation created when part of the road between Meina and Lesa collapsed into the lake in late July after a car ran off the road into the lake. Americans observing traffic in this area have long predicted someone would drive off the road but few thought that the collapsed guardrail would take a big piece of the road with it.

Neighbors report that press cars have parked along via San Antonio near the PM’s villa which is “narrow enough as it is.” But “he puts his trash bags out in front of the villa gates on trash pickup day just like everyone else” another resident remarked, and “I think he separates the recyclables too.”

The Prime Minister has complained recently about the press taking photographs of people coming from and going to the white helicopter that lands on the north lawn of the property. But he makes his own news every time he journeys to Arona for a gelato and, “thank goodness, he only comes to politic or have gelato,” said one Arona resident, “Napoleon came and he blew up our only fortress, left Angera Castle standing across the lake, and now Angera has the big tourist draw.”


Thanks Tony! You'll let us know if there are any gelato sightings, si?






Tuesday, August 24, 2010

The Weather



Many of you have been writing and asking me about the weather. I can't lie... the weather isn't perfect and sunny everyday here. But I will say that during this August, for the most part, Stresa has experienced very lovely weather. The first three weeks of the month have brought only a very few days with rain, and even then the rain comes often at night. The days have been sunny and with low humidity, temperatures in the mid-80s F (about 27 to 29 C.) In the evenings it's been cooler (about 60 F, 16 C.); I see many with light jackets at night. So is it perfect? Not always, but it's close! And on the few days when it's not, just do like these guys above that I spotted on Via Roma... prendi l'ombrello, grab your umbrella, and get out there anyway!

You can always check the current temperature, as well as a 15-day forecast, here on Stresa Sights at the top of the left column.



The Grandest Buffet



While many of the hotels serve a scrumptious breakfast buffet, and many prepare wonderful special dinner menus throughout the year, there is only one annual Buffet di Ferragosto, and it is that which is served each August 15 at the Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees. At this grandest of the grand hotels, each Ferragosto holiday, the annual mid-summer festival, is an occasion to out-do themselves with edible sculptures and a gastronomical heaven of a menu. With all foods served in finger food sizes you can be sure to try each and every one! Here are a few photos of the preparation for this year's feast:

There's no reason to pile up a plate... you can try foods one a time, because they are served in their own glass or spoon. The cost of this dinner buffet, served from 8 to 10 pm, was 75 euro... a princely price, si, but this is the Borromees afterall, and an only once-a-year experience each August.


Friday, August 20, 2010

Grand Breakfasts At Stresa's Grand Hotels



Setting up for breakfast at the Regina Palace Hotel.
Italians generally don't eat breakfast... a cappuccino and brioche on the run works for most of them... but in Stresa they do know how to provide tourists with some amazing morning choices. La colazione, breakfast, is a grand affair at the grand hotels, and a great way to start the day. It is often served on terraces in the fronts of the hotels, facing the lake and the lightening sky. For guests breakfast is usually included in their room rates; most hotels allow others to eat for a set price; just ask!


The dining terrace at the Regina Palace.
This breakfast is much more than brioche.


Thursday, August 19, 2010

The Playground


Stresa's littlest tourists have a place of their own in the playground on the lungolago. Nestled between Caffe Verbanella on one side and one of the beaches on the other, and offering shade, benches, some picnic tables, this is a perfect location when little ones need a bit of time of their own.


Tuesday, August 17, 2010

The Trenino


Not that Stresa is very big, but tourists young and old still like to take at least one ride in Il Trenino, the small choo choo train that travels around Stresa all day long. For a few euros passengers will get a good overview of the town, seeing where things are to return to later. The train begins and ends in the large parking lot called Piazza Marconi, the one in front of the Stresa imbarcadero. There is also a special train which travels back and forth from the same spot in the parking lot to the gardens and zoo at Villa Pallavicino. Tickets are purchased right next to the train from a kiosk.


Il Trenino di Stresa has its own Web site with a bit more information and prices, here.



Saturday, August 14, 2010

Friday Markets


All year, Friday morning is market morning in Stresa, in Piazza Capucci, which is a large parking lot during the rest of the week. Locals come to buy cheese, meats and fruits. Tourists come to by clothing, handbags and shoes. Products change weekly and seasonally, with the crops and with the fashions. It's crowded and fun and a great place to find gifts for others or better, for yourself. What will you find this time?






Every day is market day in some town. Here's some information on the others:
Market Towns





Friday, August 13, 2010

Jazz Thursdays



Every Thursday evening through the summer, starting at 7:30 pm, Caffe Verbanella presents a live jazz band. On this night the quintet was the Swiss Jazz Band, paying tribute to legendary trombonists JJ Johnson and Kai Winding.



What could be nicer than soothing jazz, a comfortably elegant venue, and glass windows offering a sunset view of the lake. Verbanella is known also for its perfectly prepared drinks...

... and in the summer it is always Bellini time!

I've been told by a Stresiana that the Verbanella Bellini are the next-best thing to the famous ones of Venice. I know that mine was delicious, cool, and refreshing.




Weddings





They came from Martinez, CA, a city of 40,000 near San Francisco, to be married here in Stresa. Robert Schroder is the mayor of Martinez; the mayor of Stresa, Sindaco Canio di Milia married Schroder and Suzanne Hatch last week in a civil ceremony in his office. Robert and Suzanne are only one of the growing numbers of couples who are choosing Stresa as a destination for their wedding ceremonies. And why not? This way they are already in a perfect honeymoon location as well...





Tuesday, August 10, 2010

Isola Bella

A painter stands at a corner of the Palazzo Borromeo on Isola Bella. He is painting the other island, Isola dei Pescatori, with watercolors. He didn't seem to be selling the paintings, perhaps they are just for him.

He was only one of many enjoying the relaxing views and atmosphere of Isola Bella on this summer day, when tourists roam the palace and its famous gardens, wander through the medieval alleyways to shop, and stop to lunch at restaurants overlooking the lake.


Tourists wander around and through the Palazzo Borromeo.


Find a corner with a view for lunch. 




Fiori Di Fuoco - Fireworks

Fiori di Fuoco in Arona, August 7, part of the World Championship of Fireworks.


Fiori di Fuoco, Flowers of Fire, is the Italian term for fireworks. It is a good name, no? And August is the time to see several amazing displays. Each year this area hosts the World Championship of Fireworks, offering six evenings of incredible shows in six different stunning locations. In addition, there are other fireworks, such as the one this upcoming Saturday evening in nearby Verbania as part of the Palio Remiero event.

Here's a link to more of Giancarlo Parazzoli's fireworks photos from the Neveazzurra blog site.


Monday, August 9, 2010

La Palma's Swimming Pool

Location, location, location! The pool of the La Palma Hotel certainly has it.

While many head for the various beaches, those both official and improvised, many hotel guests have swimming pools available at their hotels. All provide a wonderful escape from summer heat and a break from sightseeing, but in my mind none has a view like that of the pool at La Palma, which hangs on the edge of Lago Maggiore, just a few meters from the Lungolago but a world away behind their gate and hedges.





Piazza Matteotti


Every seat is taken and crowds also stand along the sides to hear the Eight O'Clock Blues Band, playing their fourth of five concerts scheduled for this summer at Caffe Bolongaro. This group addresses the crowd in Italian, and then sings Chicago and Louisiana blues in perfect English. The crowd always seems to love this multicultural evening... evidenced by much toe-tapping and clapping.

Keep your eyes (and ears) open for music all summer long in this spot. There's often something happening here!







Sunday, August 8, 2010

Gelato


Needless to say, summer means gelato. For some it is an important daily ritual. And the only question is... What flavor shall I try today?


Maybe little tastes of several? Perche no... Why not...








Friday, August 6, 2010

The Ship Verbania



Sometimes the journey is as good as the destination. Such is the case on the long boat ride from Stresa to Locarno on the Navigazione Laghi ship Verbania. These people are enjoying the view from the lower deck, just about at water level. Upstairs are two restaurant decks, one casual and one a bit nicer, and more seating, the top deck in the sunshine. The trip from Stresa to Locarno takes just under three hours, making several stops along the way including Cannobio, Luina across the lake, the Brissago Islands on the Swiss side of the lake, and Ascona, before Locarno. It is also often the boat part of the Lago Maggiore Express route.


The view...

There is no better way to get a sense of the scope and size and true beauty of the lake than by being on it. A very relaxing ride indeed...






Thursday, August 5, 2010

Sunset At Lido Blu

They are enjoying dinner, or maybe just drinks, at Lido Blu, while watching il tramonto, the sunset, over the Borromeo Gulf. The sun sets late here... the photo above was taken at about 9:00 pm, and the one below at about 9:30 pm. The lights twinkling across the water are those in Verbania, and the bottom photo is facing more west, towards Baveno.




Lido Blu is a casual bar and restaurant on the Lungolago across from the Regina Palace Hotel. The Lido Blu beach is 'hidden', semi-privately, beyond the wall of the restaurant, as shown in this beach post.





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