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Tre Domande -- Three Questions With Canio Di Milia, Mayor of Stresa
- Please describe Stresa for my English-speaking readers who have never been there.
- What thing do you like the most in Stresa?
- How do you see Stresa five years from now?
Ski Season Opens December 5 On Mt. Mottarone
In just a few days, On December 5, Mt. Mottarone will open its ski resort for the 2009 - 2010 season. The opening, as always, coincides with the official beginning of the Christmas season in Italy. So far, the opening looks good to go. The first dustings of snow fell last week, and with the lower temperatures and rainy days of this week the summit of the mountain will surely be ready. We've talked about Mt. Mottarone in winter here before, but let's review again for the new season and all those of you who are coming here, or thinking of coming here, to ski. In addition, there are some new features at Mottarone to talk about.
Mottarone is a surprisingly large mountain which rises 4892 ft/1491 m. behind Stresa. The summit, where the ski runs begin, can be reached with the 18 minute ride on the cableway from Carciano, or, with the 20 minute drive up the private mountain road (there is a small fee required on the last part of this road). Last year saw the opening of a new, short ski lift which brings skiers and visitors from the cableway station at the top a bit higher, to the ski station, eliminating what previously had to be done on foot, with skis over shoulders.
Now let's look at the new features this year:
In the area of the mountain called Campetti Milanese a section has been enclosed and will now be used for the renting and riding of small motorized sleds and miniquads, providing an alternative activity for skiers, or perhaps for those who do not ski.
Attention has been given to the littlest guests this year; and Sunday afternoons beginning on December 28 will see special events just for them. In addition to the lesson groups already available for young skiers, Sundays they will be visited by, and have the opportunity to ski with Motty, the costumed blue bear mascot of Mt. Mottarone. Motty and his friends will have games, entertainment, and music exclusively for the children.
Another new initiative, from December 24, each Tuesday and Friday, inside of the daily journal Libero, look for a coupon which will give a 3 euro discount on the price of a daily skipass. Just clip the coupons and use them at any time during the season, bringing it with you when you purchase your ski pass.
There are several restaurants in which one can warm up, sit by a fire, eat comforting mountain food, and drink the specialty, fil de fer.
Tickets can be purchased at the cableway station, at the tourist office at the Stresa embarcadero, and at several tourist agency offices. For more information on Mt. Mottarone's winter skiing:
Here is the link for the winter cableway schedule: http://www.stresa-mottarone.it/winter_timetable_rates.htm
And the link to Mottarone's main ski Web site: http://www.mottaroneski.it/it/index.php
Don't forget to check at the station for any potential weather closings, and don't forget, it will be much colder at the top!
Food: Soup... Italian Style
Brodo di Carne
Favorite Quotations -- Thanksgiving
Happy Thanksgiving From Stresa Sights To All!
the photo was taken on my street in West Chester, on a recent beautiful autumn day
Christmas 2009 In Stresa
Concerts: Throughout the month of December look for many free classical concerts at several of the local churches. Of special note would be the December 7 concert in tiny, centuries old Chiesa San Vittore on Isola Pescatore. Throughout the month there are also several concerts in the parrocchial churches in the villages surrounding Stresa. A wonderful way to hear beautiful music, see some of the smaller churches, and get into the Christmas mood.
Bonfires: A large bonfire will start off the season on the lungolago, in front of the Hotel Astoria, on the evening of December 8, 2009. There will be free hot drinks.
Presepio: The presepi, nativity scenes, will once again be on display all around Isola Bella, as well as in various other places around the city. Here's a link to some beautiful presepi photos from Natale 2008. This year, also look for a very special presepio in the Spazio Luparia gallery, by artist Giuseppe Loda.
Foods: Take advantage of all the free hot chocolates and vin brule to keep warm while walking around Stresa. And of course enjoy some panettone and pandoro. Last year I wrote a bit about the history of these cakes, take a look at the link if you'd like to learn a bit more about them.
Oh, here's one more thing you can't forget... be sure you sit down inside in one of the bars for a true Italian cioccolata calda; there is nothing like it...
Chiesa Del Ss. Crocifisso At Il Collegio Rosmini
It's impossible to walk around Stresa without noticing the name Antonio Rosmini, and wondering who was this man who is featured so prominently here. There are streets and buildings named for him, a statue of him along the lungolago, and, of course, the imposing college that sits on a hilltop on the southern side of town. So, who was he? Born into a wealthy and respected family of Roverato in 1797, Rosmini decided at an early age to enter the priesthood, and he was ordained in 1821. He studied philosophy, and wrote much on the subject, but by the 1840s his beliefs and his writings had aroused great opposition in the church, and many of his works became forbidden readings. Rosmini, confident in his convictions, retired. He moved to Stresa, where he had already established a boarding school and center of education thanks to the very generous donations of Anna Maria Bolongaro, a wealthy and devout Stresiana who was a friend and follower. He would live in Stresa for the rest of his life. During his years in Stresa he taught his beliefs to his followers, who are called Rosminians. The Rosminians were both priests and nonclergy who believed in his ideas, and they followed his practice of educating youth, preaching, and performing works of universal charity. Before he died, in 1855, he did have the satisfaction of knowing that his questionable works had been declared free from censure.
What were his teachings that were so controversial? Rosmini devoted his studies to the old questions asked by many of the ancient philosophers, those of the origins, truths, and certainties of our ideas, and what, in essense, our human sense of 'being' is, where it derives from.
Clearly, the perception of Rosmini's works and his teachings have changed much in the 150 years since his death. So much so that, on June 26, 2006, Pope Benedetto XVI signed a decree recognizing Rosmini's heroic virtues, declaring him to be Venerable. Then followed the beatification in November 2007. Should any miracles be attributed to Rosmini, and should they be proven, he will become a saint. In the meantime, members of his parish are permitted to pray to him.
Today, Il Collegio Rosmini in Stresa is a world-renowned religious, cultural, and educational center. Inside, Rosmini's remains are interred in a crypt in the Chiesa del Ss. Crocifisso. His bones are watched over by statues of the saints from the Lago Maggiore area. In a side chapel is a statue of Rosmini, kneeling with a book, sculpted by Vincenzo Vela of Ticino.
Do you like looking at different churches? Here's are a couple of other posts about some:
Chiesa di Santo Gervasio e Protasio -- Baveno's Parish Church
Chiesa di San Remigio
Or take a look at the entire category of chrches here.
Inbox
This one was fun! A reader wrote with the following question:
A: I am almost certain that the shop you are describing is called Leone, the bookshop that is on the corner of Piazza Cadorna and Via P. Tomaso. I myself have bought some Murano glass jewelry and gifts there...
And I thought at this the question had been answered, until I received another mail saying:
I just realized this is not the shop as I do not recall it selling books/stationery, nor is it on a corner opposite a piazza.
You have made my day as this is the shop!YES!! 100% satisfaction... that's our goal, and we won't rest until we've succeeded.
I cannot thank you enough for all your efforts, your friends included.
Ernest Hemingway's Stresa
In 1918, the 19-year-old Ernest Miller Hemingway was an American Red Cross Volunteer, driving an ambulance in Italy. After being injured at Fossalta di Piave, in July 1918, he was sent to the Red Cross hospital in Milan. There, he had hundreds of pieces of schrapnel removed from his legs, and during his recuperation, he fell in love with his nurse, Agnes von Kurowsky. By September, Ernest was well enough to be given a 10-day pass from the hospital, and decided to go to Stresa to regain his strength in the fresh air of the lake. He wore the ring that Agnes had given to him. He was traveling with another ambulance driver, Johnny Miller, and they stayed in Room 106 at the Hotel des Iles Borromees, a first-floor suite that overlooks the gardens in front of the hotel and looks to the islands in the gulf beyond. He wrote to his parents: "I'm up here at Stresa a little resort on Lake Maggiore one of the most beautiful of the Italian Lakes." While there, young Ernest was known to enjoy martinis at the bar, and to play billiards with Conte Emanuele Greppi. He also became friendly with Bianca Bellia, daughter of Piervincenzo Bellia, who was one of the wealthiest men in Italy at that time. It is known that they took a trip up the Mottorone tram together, to the top of Mt. Mottarone, to take in a view of the lake, the lakes surrounding it, and the Swiss Alps to their north.
It's clear to see the many parallels between this trip of Ernest's and the setting as used in A Farewell to Arms. The major difference, of course, is that while this trip was a pleasant diversion for Ernest, for Frederick Henry the area is gray and cold and muddy, and it marks the beginning of the tragic end to the story of him and the nurse Catherine Barclay.
The Story of L'Idrovolante
Isola Bella, Beautiful Island -- A Little Background
Or read through all of the History posts here.
News: Stresa -- Community of Flowers 2009!
This is no small competiton. 'Comune Fioriti' was started ten years ago, and has grown in stature each year, now attracting 25,000 participating cities annually from all over Europe. The goal is two-fold, to both make these cities more beautiful to those who visit, and to give pleasure also to those who live there. I've always known how beautiful Stresa is in the summer, with flowering gardens along the lungolago and windowboxes on so many balconies; now, Stresa has been officially recognized for these efforts and for its beauty.
Risotto alla Milanese
The classic. Risotto alla Milanese.
But there are variations on the theme, and risotto is made and found in local restaurants with many other additions beyond the traditional saffron. I remember one in particular, a very special plate of champagne risotto I ate at il Ristorante Arc en Ciel, on Via P. Tomaso in Stresa. I had it as my primo at this meal; for my antipasto there was a refreshing plate of melone e prosciutto crudo. In my mind a perfect summer northern Italian meal. I regret that I didn't take photos that evening, and so you'll need to imagine this champagne risotto, with a good quarter bottle of champagne added before the broth, and vegetable broth used in place of beef broth. The result is creamy, white risotto, rich tasting, with just a hint of tartness from the champagne.
Giuseppe and I have made many pots of risotto. One winner was our prosecco risotto prepared alla versione Marchesi. This is a reference to the great Italian chef Gualtiero Marchesi, who makes risotto with water instead of broth. We tried just this, and created a perfect and light risotto with prosecco, which, per essere onesta, to be honest, I preferred even to the champagne version, as I for one will take prosecco any day over champagne.
Here's a link again to the Italian Notebook note on risotto alla milanese: www.italiannotebook.com/food-wine/legend-risotto-alla-milanese/
Note added 2012: Arc en Ciel has closed.
First Snows Have Fallen
So polish up those skis, go buy a new scarf in the market, pile up some wood near your fireplace, it's time to get ready for another winter season in Stresa.
Louis Vuitton Also Chooses Stresa
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SOME IMPORTANT DATES
Visit The Stresa Tourist Office For Complete Event Schedules
STRESA SIGHTS by DANA KAPLAN
READERS' QUESTIONS
- Where can I buy foreign newspapers in Stresa?
- Where can I eat breakfast in Stresa?
- Where are the public restrooms in Stresa?
- Can I rent a wheelchair in Stresa?
- Should I buy train tickets in advance?
- Are there any day tours to Switzerland from Stresa?
- How can I arrange a civil wedding in Stresa?
- How bad are the summer bugs in Stresa?
- Do I Need A Car In Stresa?
- Is there an Internet cafe in Stresa?
- Is it too isolated staying at an Isola dei Pescatori hotel?
IMPORTANT POSTS AND LINKS
- Top Ten Things to See in Stresa
- Swimming, Hiking, Outdoor Activities
- Weather
- Important Train Information
- Alibus Shuttle From Malpensa to Stresa
- Driving Directions From Malpensa - With Photos
- If You Have Only One Day in Stresa
- Parking a Car in Stresa
- Train Service from Malpensa to Stresa and Milano
- Supermarkets, Food Shops, and Fast Food
- Laundromats
- Linate Airport to Stresa Directions
- Milan Tram System Map and Transport
- Bus Schedule
- Stresa Boat Imbarcadero
- Stresa to Mottarone Cableway
- Boat Schedule - English
- PosteItaliane - Postal service
- Trenitalia Site and Schedule -- English
- Winter Trip to Stresa? Start Planning Here
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