Ok... back to the story. In Good Blood, which takes place in Stresa, and which I read while I was recently in Stresa, a kidnapping has taken place. The young heir to the wealthy and historic de Grazia family has been abducted and ransom information has been received. Meanwhile, buried bones have been found on a nearby construction site owned by the de Grazia family. Whose bones are they? And are these events related in some way?

The star of our novel, the forensic bone detective Gideon, who just happens to be in Stresa at this time, is of course called in to consult on the case. After a stressful day of investigations and interviews he goes alone to relax, and to think, to the Bar Nazionale in Piazza Cadorna.

From the book:

In the evening, with the rain having slackened off, Gideon had a half carafe of local Barolo at the outdoor cafe across the street from the hotel, and then walked the few short blocks to the cobblestoned Piazza Cadorna, to the Ristorante Nazionale, where he, Julie, and Phil had been for dinner on their first night. He sat outside, on the lively piazza, at an umbrellaed table set among potted flowering plants and ordered what he'd had before: pizza quattro stagione, with artichokes, ham, olives, and mushrooms, each on its own quarter; a salad; and a limonata. As it had been the other time, the pizza was perfectly baked in a brick, wood-fired oven, the crust was thin and tender, with just the right dusting of ash on the bottom, and the vegetables were fragrant and al dente.

A nice descriptive passage from the book. The incredible thing was that I was sitting outside at Nazionale when I read this. What a coincidence! And the description in the book is completely accurate. Unlike Gideon however, I was there at lunchtime, taking some time on my own to read and enjoy the piazza. I sat in an area that did not have the umbrellas open, better to feel sun that shines in this direction at midday. I ate a focaccia con prosciutto cotto e formaggio, basically ham and cheese, which I paid about 4 euro for. It was more than enough, almost too large, with delicious fresh focaccia. Like Gideon, I have found Nazionale to be consistent, a great spot for very basic and economical meals and snacks, and in a fantastic location. In the mornings it's one of the spots in Stresa where friends meet for more lingering caffes, or in the summer, Shakeratos. At later at night, with its cool blue neon sign under the arched arcade, it's a quiet corner from which to watch the piazza.

This news just in from Trivago. it, the Italian Internet travel site, that Lago Maggiore's own La Rocca di Angera has been selected among the 10 most beautiful castles in Italy. That's wonderful news at the start of this tourist season, and very serendipitous timing, as I have just been sent a beautiful guest post and video slideshow about La Rocca from my friend and loyal reader Nora.

Rocca Borromeo

– guest post by Stresa Sight’s reader – Nora

In August 2009 I visited the magnificent Rocca Borromeo (also known as Rocca di Angera) with my husband and young daughter. It is just across the lake from Stresa. There is a local ferry that runs directly from Stresa to Angera but it is not a regular service. You can do what we did and take the car or train to Arona (just a 15 minute journey - 9k from Stresa). There is a frequent service of boats from Arona across the lake. When you arrive, stroll through the pretty town of Angera and hike a short distance through the lovely chestnut woods up to the Borromeo castle. I recommend wearing comfortable walking shoes!

Rocca Borromeo dominates the southern end of Lago Maggiore. It is a perfectly preserved 14th century medieval fortress atop a spur of limestone rock on the Quirico hill, 200m above the town of Angera. Under the Visconti family it was largely rebuilt. Since 1449 it has been the property of the Borromeo family. San Carlo Borromeo was born here.

In 1988 the Rocca Borromeo became home to the Doll Museum (Il Museo della Bambola e del Giocattolo). It consists of 12 rooms with over 200 years of doll’s history and is one of the largest of its kind in Europe. The collection includes over 1,000 dolls from all the countries of the world. It also contains toys, books, old photographs, miniature furniture, household accessories and board games. They are from the private collection of the Princess Bona Borromeo and include donations and constant acquisitions.

Little pianist, just one of the dolls in the incredible Doll Museum.

I was fascinated by the overwhelming number of dolls and was stunned by the level of detail in the miniature pieces and the fine embroidery in the costumes. The Doll Museum can be enjoyed by adults and children alike. I loved the beautiful old photographs of the princess with her dolls and toys. In one of them, the little Princess Ida Taverna Borromeo is dressed like a doll herself. In another photograph, she is in a tiny cart pulled by a goat! There is a showcase with Shirley Temple dolls and memorabilia and there is even a Barbie doll representing Marilyn Monroe. There are also another three rooms containing a children’s fashion museum with a collection of clothing spanning the 17th century to the 1940s.

Frescoe representing Visconti military exploits in 1277.

The castle has many historical rooms, one of which is The Hall of Justice (La Sala di Giustizia) which preserves a marvellous fresco cycle of the late 13^th century. The frescoes represent Ottore Visconti and his military exploits in 1277. This room is also used as a concert hall. From the Sala a wooden staircase leads to the Tower Castellana which affords magnificent views across the wide expanse of Lago Maggiore to Arona, the pre-Alps and the Alps.

A view from the Tower Castellana.

In another room there are animated models of French and German automata mechanical toys produced during the 19th century. Through it is a path with magical effects of light, sound and video installations on which you can see the objects moving. The mechanical automatons date from the 19th century, all of which are fully functioning.

In 2009, the Borromeo family decided to increase awareness of the medieval epoch with the opening of the Medieval Gardens. These gardens provide a fascinating look into the magical world of the Middle Ages. It is a type of laboratory on plantations and crops of the medieval era. Also worthy of note, is a giant 17th century wine press housed in a large wine-pressing room. There is something for everyone to enjoy here!

After a tour of the castle and museums you can have a relaxing lunch in the lovely Caffetteria Della Rocca and savor the stunning views over the lake from the terrace of the castle.

Suggestion: the castle and museums can be seen in half a day. You could combine this with a visit to the lovely town of Arona directly across the lake for the second part of the day.

And now that you've read about it, take a look at the video slideshow. If you weren't already convinced to visit La Rocca, this will do it:

Open 20 March 2010– 17 October 2010 (9.30-12.30/14.00-18:00)
October closed at 17:00
Tickets - 2010 prices – Adults €7.50 Children €5.00 euro (6-15 years)

For the 2010 season they have also opened several new museums at La Rocca; we've mentioned them in an earlier post here.

Nora is the creator and writer of Enchanting Italy, a blog about Chieti, Abruzzo, another beautiful area in this beautiful country. Thank you soooo much Nora, for contributing this lovely post!

Late one afternoon I went to meet Rosaria, the proprietress of Enoteca La Cambusa on via Cavour, just a block back from the lakefront. When I entered the shop she was busy attending to customers. I heard her speaking perfect German with a couple looking at some sweets near the door. Then she moved to the barrels in the center of the shop where a young couple had some questions for her. They were French, and she responded to them in French, accent perfect as well. And when I introduced myself she switched effortlessly to English for me. Already impressed with the selection and look of her shop, I was immediately taken with Rosaria as well. She was getting ready to close up for the day, and so we had some quiet minutes to chat before she needed to leave.

Rosaria Bolla and her family have owned and run Cambusa in this same location since 1981, and previous to that there was another location in town that had opened in 1961. The shop is divided into somewhat narrow sections, with shelves lining the walls from floor to ceiling. These hold a stunning selection of wines and spirits, but also local food specialties, pastas, and sweets. These alone would make Cambusa a favorite shopping destination of both locals and tourists alike, but what really makes it special here are the wine tastings that Rosaria offers... for free.


Arrange a time with her for your group and Rosaria will choose a few wines for you. She'll explain them a bit, offer tastings of all to all with little appetizers as well. There are several square wooden high tables scattered around, with stools, for you to use for as long as you like enjoying the wines. The atmosphere in the shop is friendly and relaxed, one never feels pressured to buy, or to leave. If you're not there for a tasting you can still enjoy the tables and the ambience. Simply buy a bottle off the shelves and if you'd like to stay and enjoy it there Rosaria will open it for you and provide you with as many glasses as you need. Just like with the tastings, there is no additional charge for this service. And you'll probably get a bit of education and some great conversation also. (What a great idea for a rainy afternoon when you're wondering what to do!)

Rosaria proudly showed me a magazine article written about her in a Disney publication. It features a great photo of her in her shop, where everyone leaves as a friend of hers. She has built up quite a clientele over the years, with customers and fans from around the world, and when they return to Stresa they contact Rosaria first to ask her what they can bring back to her from their own countries.

I didn't stay for a bottle that day, as Rosaria was leaving. But you can be sure I'll be there the next time. Like everyone else who enters Cambusa, I feel I left with a new friend.


Enoteca La Cambusa
via Cavour 27
28838 Stresa (VB)
Tel: 00 39 0323 31938
e-mail: contact@winelacambusa.com

Will you be in Stresa on a weekend between May 15 and June 12? If so, you may want to remember to stop in to the main church in Stresa, la Chiesa Parracchiale SS Ambrogio e Theodulo, to catch one of the organ concerts just scheduled. This is the twentieth edition of the festival, bringing world reknowned organists to Stresa to play the recently restored Tamburini 1965 three-keyboard, 61-pedal organ. The concerts are all free, an opportunity for both residents and tourists to hear the potential of this beautiful musical instrument.

Here are the concert dates:

Saturday 15 May - Victor Urban, organo (Messico)

Saturday 22 May - Josep Vicent Giner, organo (Spagna)

Saturday 29 May - Lindy Rosborg, organo (Danimarca)

Sunday 6 June - Daniel Matrone, organo (Francia)

Saturday 12 June - Orchestra Filarmonica Biellese Emilio Straudi, direttore Mario Duella, organo

Each concert begins at 9:15 pm. It's part of a series of concerts organized by the Assocazione Culturale Storici Organi dei Piemonte taking place not only in Stresa but also in Biella, Biellese, and Valsesia. Here's their Web site: www.storiciorganipiemonte.com

On the flight to Stresa -- yes! I've been in Stresa this past week, which will explain the absence of posts -- I was having too much fun to post about it at the time, but don't worry, I'll bring you up to date on all -- but on the flight, I began a book that had been recently recommended to me. I had saved it for this trip, as the setting of the book was Stresa itself. The book is Good Blood, by Aaron Elkins. It's a mystery novel, and it turned out to be an excellent read and a fun choice for the trip. The central characters are a wealthy and aristocratic family that live on Isola de Grazia, de Grazia being their family name. Clearly, they are patterned after the Borromeo family, although the characters and the story and their particular island are all fictional. What's not fictional however, is the portrayal of Stresa itself.

For example, the story opens with a kidnapping and shootout. The 16-year-old son of the wealthy family is being chauffeur-driven to school when a carefully planned accident blocks the main road, causing his limousine to divert onto Stresa's narrow alleys. In a tight spot the car is trapped, a shootout occurs, the boy is taken.

I'm very pleased and proud to say that the Stresa Sights tour package is now featured as one of the Ideal Vacations on Villa Vita International! As you know, I've been helping people plan their vacations for some time now, but this is the first time we have put together an official tour package. It's called the Mountains and Lakes program, and I can't think of a nicer place to have it featured than on Villa Vita.


Villa Vita is founded by and run by Gina Ruggiero, who since 1994 has been organizing specialized trips to Italy. I want you to take a look at her site and bookmark it. What she creates are truly special vacations, where one stays in unique accomodations, and spends days working with photographers, painters, or cooks. Or, she will custom design a stay that is exactly perfect for you.



I feel so honored that Gina finds Stresa Sights a good match for her tours. You know how impassioned I am with this Lago Maggiore area, and how it's been our goal here to introduce it to as many people as we can, so it's wonderful to have it recognized by Gina in this way and added to her repertoire.

Next, we'll be getting this information onto the site. And we'll be adding other tour ideas as well. I hope you'll find them helpful. And as this is helpful to you, I'm hoping that you will continue to help us as you have been, by sending YOUR ideas and comments, YOUR reviews on the places you've been here, your questions. We're all friends of Stresa, having fun here together. That's my goal. And as always, I hope you'll use them as a guide, a starting point, to let us help you create your perfect Stresa vacation.