Denis Croce, of Ristorante Marconi, speaks to us in his kitchen.

There can be no better way to get to know a restaurant than to visit its kitchen. And the best way to learn cooking techniques is to watch a master chef in action. Denis Croce, owner and chef at Ristorante Marconi, in Crodo, knows this, and has opened his kitchen on certain evenings for very special cooking classes, each of which focuses on one part of the meal, such as desserts, the primo piatto, or the secondo piatto.

When he needs some for a dish, he uses a portion of the frozen, reheats it in a saucepan, and adds a slice of butter to thicken it.

Stuzzichino di Robiola di Roccaverano con cialdina alle nocciale. Two thumbs up.

Pomodorini ciliegia marinati al pesto di basilico con Burratina e crudo della Valle Vigezzo croccante. Two thumbs up.

Cannolo di pasta brick con Ricotta Vaccina al fumo di ginepro e pomodoro confit su mosaico di verdure e salmone affumicato.
Two BIG thumbs up. We loved these.

Tortelloni di pasta di semola con patate Ratte e Raschera su crema leggera di porri e Topinambur.Two thumbs up -- with some reservations.

Risotto Carnaroli “Acquerello” , tenuta Colombara mantecato al Blu del Monviso.Two thumbs up.
___________________________

Okay. This is embarrassing. There should be a photo of Bocconcini di faraona alle erbe porchettati su crema di Pecorino di Pienza semistagionato here. But, um, we devoured them immediately when they arrived, forgetting to take a photo.
Obviously, two BIG thumbs up.
____________________________

Biancomangiare al Castelmagno con miele di castagno e pere.Two thumbs down. The flavor simply didn't work on this layered dish of pears and cheese.

Millefoglie di cioccolato con mousse all’arancia e Quartirolo.Mixed review. One thumb up, one thumb half up.

My Italian teacher has always told us that one day, just as if someone flips a switch, all of a sudden we'll just be able to 'get it'. He's speaking about Italian of course... And he means that the more we practice, and listen, and try, someday it will all click and come together. One goal I have each time I come to Italy is to measure how much improvement I can see in my comprehension of Italian and my ability to speak. This time, this is the first time I can go back and tell my teacher, it clicked! In markets, in restaurants, with friends and strangers, this is the first time I've had no trouble at all communicating, or understanding what I hear. Several times people have stopped me to ask for directions. And I knew the correct answers. And I was able to respond.

I'm a little excited about this. So please forgive me if I've been eavesdropping a bit on strangers now and then. Like these three adorable ladies who were sitting at the next table to me at La Fontana in Verbania.


All that transpired in Italian, naturally. How cute they were, and how cool for me, that I got it, it clicked! I'm sorry signore, for having been rude. I apologize for the eavesdropping, but I'll always remember your conversation.

The only one of the three Borromean islands that is not still owned by the royal Borromeo family, Isola dei Pescatori is charming and fascinating. And small. Very small. Piccolissima small. The island measures 350 meters by 100 meters. Now a part of the city of Stresa, Pescatore is also called Isola Superiore; make a mental note that you may see it listed in this way at the boat stations. It has been inhabited for about 1000 years, as has Stresa. Nowadays there are about 50 permanent residents, and while fishing is still a great occupation on the lake, the main business these days is catering to the tourists who visit each day.

Could you spend a whole day on this little speck of an island? While most don't, while most tourists jump on and off the ferries like local stops and also visit the other Borromean islands, Isola Bella and Isola Madre, in one day, if you enjoy the slow approach, like I do, and have the time, like I did, si, yes, I think it's possible to enjoy several hours here.



Choose a restaurant. Many of course specialize in fish, but you'll find the usual assortment of pizza, panini, and pasta as well. Casabella, located just to the right of the boat station, is a Michelin 2009 selection.

In the afternoon visit the Church of San Vittore, which you'll find high in the center of the town. It dates back to the 11th century. There are traces here of an even more ancient chapel that may date from the 9th century, when it was most likely built for an order of Scozzola monks. Browse through the souvenir and craft shops. Maybe have another espresso before catching an afternoon ferry back to the relative activity in Stresa. Be careful to check the departure times of the last ferry. If you miss it, you'll need to take a water taxi, which will cost a bit more.

Two days ago this bush was not blooming, and now, as if it knows it's the first day of spring, it is. So it was a perfect day to take myself to the Camelia Show in Pallanza, Verbania. I took the bus from Stresa, 2 euro for the 15 minute ride to Pallanza. La 43 annuale Mostra Nazionale della Camelia was held in Villa Giulia:

The crowd is gathered around the table because free aperitivi and champagne were being served. Champagne in crystal flutes. Delicious aperitivi, tuna in balsalmic vinegar, shrimp, bruschetta, tiny fruit tortas, each served in its own individual little ceramic tureen. You can't hear them, but just to the right was a three-piece ensemble, playing classic tunes. The day is a bit colder than it looks in this bright sunshine, but it didn't seem to deter people from coming. The view behind me was this one of Lago Maggiore looking towards Pallanza, with the Alps in the background:And then of course there were the camelias, over 200 varieties on display:

Well, my mind and body have switched into vacation mode. I think long, researched posts may have to wait a bit. I have the time, but not the inclination. Nel frattempo, in the meantime, a few photos from my walk this morning, a grayer morning, sinister of rain, but also beautiful.

I headed west this morning, and due to a small injury l'altro ieri, the other day, I walked, no running. I went in the direction of the Zoo, where there also is the villa that it has been rumored George Clooney was looking at. The red brick path ends, unfortunately, about there, at the Stresa city limit. If I could keep walking, however, I'd soon arrive at the villa that Silvio Berlusconi did purchase, and where he visits often. Then I doubled back the other way... along the Lungolago come sempre, like always. If I had any say in the matter here, I'd continue the lungolago through the next towns, connecting all to each other this way, so that it were possible to run, walk, or ride between them.

I never use an iPod when I walk, never have, never will. It's always been my time to think and be lost in my own little zone. I never get bored, even with the same route, because it's never really the same, is it? Maybe that's why this morning I was thinking about the Greek philosopher Hericlitus, who some 2600 years ago said, "You can't jump into the same river twice..." Look here at the Lungolago post from two days ago and you'll see what I mean.

The rain never came, just as I finished my walk, the sun began to break through the clouds and dry up the mist. Perfect... sunshine prevailed for the remainder of the morning, when I headed over to the Friday Stresa mercato... Photos on that later...

Just enough news to digest with a cup of cappuccino.

Stresa's mayor, Canio Di Milia, joins the blogosphere, becoming one of the first mayors in Italy to start his own blog, with which he plans to communicate with his constituents, record weekly video messages for them, and accept and answer their comments.

Sunday, March 8th marked the second annual Lago Maggiore Half Marathon, with over 2,300 participants leaving from Stresa and running to Pallanza. The winner was Ezekiel Jafari Ngimba, from Tanzania, with a time of 1 hour and 41 seconds.

Sunday also was the national holiday Festa della Donna, a day similar to our Mother's Day. The traditional flower to give on this holiday is the Mimosa; Stresa sponsored its own flower sale in Piazza Cadorna, with the proceeds benefitting research for multiple scherosis.

If you don't feel like it's spring yet visit the Camelia Spring Show, March 21 and 22, at Villa Rusconi in Verbania. The two-day show will feature over 200 varieties of the Camelia, both antique and modern, music, a children's garden, sales of products and books, as well as the introduction of a new women's fragrance, based on the scent of Camelias, grenadine, and citrus zest, called "Fiori di Stresa".

Here’s an interesting item that I recently read… From valle Vigezzo, near Switzerland in the far north of Piemonte about 40 minutes from Stresa, comes proof of yet another bellissima cosa, a beautiful thing, that originates from Italy. Legislators in Paris recently settled a long-standing dispute regarding the invention of Eau de Cologne. And as the Italian Feminis and Farina families have long been claiming, their ancestors, Giovanni Maria Farina and Giovanni Paolo Feminis, have been shown, officially now, to be the true inventors of the original ‘Eau de Cologne’, the world’s longest continuously-produced fragrance. The newly discovered documents, from 1727, credit Feminis, a barber from Santa Maria Maggiore, and his nephew, Giovanni Farina, with the invention and ownership of the fragrance. Basically, they were awarded the patent on it.

This photograph, courtesy of Wikipedia, shows an original bottle of Eau de Cologne; the paper uses a French translation of Giovanni Farina's name.

The valle Vigezzo area is an easy 30 to 40 minute drive from Stresa. One takes the motorway for Domodossola, heading towards the Simplon Pass. The area can also be seen and enjoyed as part of the Lago Maggiore Express train tour, which makes several stops in towns of the valley, such as Santa Maria Maggiore, Druogno, Malesco, and Re, before entering the Swiss Alps.

The famous Passo del Sempione, the Simplon Pass, which connects northern Piemonte with Switzerland, was closed today due to 37 cm of fresh snow that fell last night. But we know it's winter's last hurrah, as the extended forecast is calling for warmer weather. In Stresa, thoughts are already turning to primavera, spring. Shops are reopening and preparing for the beginning of the tourist season. Gardeners have cleaned up and replanted the flower beds in the piazze. And the National Camelia Exhibition in Verbania is only two weeks away. And so, I offer you one last look at Stresa in winter before we turn our attention and focus to spring.

Today let's pretend we're going to take a boat ride from the main Stresa imbarcadero. We've already taken a look on this blog at the boat schedule (click here to see boat schedule post) and how that works. Now let's actually take a ride, so you'll know what to expect when you're there.

This building is the Stresa imbarcadero, the main boat stop. It's located at Piazza Marconi, in the center of town, at the end of via P. Tomaso. The River Cree that we already spoke about runs directly under here by the way, (you can read about that again here.) The office on the right is an important spot to know. It's the official Stresa Tourist Office. Inside you'll always find someone who speaks English well, and who is willing to help with any request you have. There's also a nice selection of free maps and brochures in various languages. Sometimes there are also free posters available, just ask... On the left is a coffee bar, quite nice for that cappuccino while you're waiting.

Go on inside the building. This building was at one time the Stresa Casino, so take a quick glance around. Are those columns made out of Baveno Granite? Take a look, maybe they are... Okay, go to one of the windows to buy a ticket. As you can see on the official site of the Navigazione Laghi, there are many tickets and combinations available. The ticket sellers should be able to help you sort out what you need. It will depend on the time of year, whether you want a one-way, round-trip, or multiple-trip ticket, many factors.

Walk on through the building towards the lake to wait for your boat. To your left will be this sign, listing which stops will be made by each boat, and at what time. As you can see, you can do quite a bit of traveling and sight-seeing easily in this way.

And don't worry... If you are still unsure which is your boat, or have any questions at all, there will always be a couple of boat employees like these on hand to assist you.

All aboard! That was easy, right? The other imbarcaderi will all look a bit different, but the procedure for you will be much the same. Just always be doubly sure to get on the right boat, and off at the right stop. I once did miss my intended stop and traveled to the next. Boat employees were helpful directing me how to return, but I did need to buy another ticket.