Shhh... Let's call this one of those "secret" places, slightly off the beaten tourist track. For those of you visiting Lake Orta by car, after you visit the town, take the boat out to Isola San Giulio, walk through the Sacro Monte, after all that, if you would like a tranquil spot to reflect on your day in Orta, look for Luci sul Lago, located in a quiet little bay just outside the town of Orta, on the road to and from Stresa. 

When good friends came to visit, because it was a Thursday, we didn't even have to think where to go. Especially with a pretty evening such as this one was. We went to Caffe Bar Verbanella, since there is live jazz there every Thursday (and now Friday too) of the summer. I have written of this in other summers, but I like to keep doing so as a reminder to new visitors.

It was late June this time, so very long days. Arriving at 8:00 pm, the sky was still light. Just up the lake from us, near the Lido Blu Beach, a few people silently fished. The terrace was still empty at Verbanella; we're speaking of jazz after all, music and crowds start a bit later. 

We ordered our first glasses of wine and I attempted artsy shots of the chardonnays and mountains. From the Verbanella terrace, looking at the lake, the sun sets to your left, over Baveno, causing shadow to slowly overtake the terrace.

(   Continued   ...   ) 

Aperitivo!

(   Continued ... )

Just want to share with you the cuuuutest menu that I have ever seeeeen. After the Tulip Festival at Villa Taranto we went to dine at Antica Osteria il Monte Rosso, on the lake in the Suna part of Verbania. They brought us up to their open balcony, which you reach by climbing a metal spiral staircase, and when we sat they presented each of us with a small wooden box. 1854 is the year the restaurant opened.

Opening the latch and the lid, we each found a collection of items: magnifying glass, old postcards, and a bit of dried flowers bound in a ribbon.

(   Continued   ...   )

(   Continued ...   )

La Casera is located in Piazza Ranzoni, Verbania, under the arch in the blue wall.

(   Continued ...   )

(   continued  ...   )

When two dear friends visited Stresa this summer, their first time here, I took my own advice and showed them a 'Golden Day' in Stresa. Modified the version in the link a bit to suit our own needs, but we kept many elements. We began our day leisurely with cappuccini and brioche at Gigi Bar. Then, instead of taking the ferry, we made a very special day of it and hired a private water taxi for the day. We chose to do this so that we could make a little detour, a little bit more of our time on the lake and we did a drive-by (float-by?) of Santa Caterina del Sasso, stopping for as long as we wanted, and from as many angles as we wanted, to take photos. Then, back to Isola Bella, tour of the palace, walkabout all over the island. Our taxi came just moments after I placed the phone call for it, and brought us across the water to Isola dei Pescatori, where we had lunch plans. And THAT is what I want to tell you about today ... our lunch at Ristorante Belvedere. 

The above photo is from their own website, and shows the 'back' of the restaurant, taken from in the lake. Water taxis and the ferries make their stops on the other side of the island, so it's a bit busier, nosier, kiosk-filled on that side. But enter the restaurant from there and walk through, and it is like entering another world. I've been here before, and knew what to expect, but it was nice to see the pleasure on my friends' faces with their first look.

We arrived at the end of the lunch rush; the outdoor terrace, covered by a ceiling of umbrellas, was still fairly full. Having reserved, we were so fortunate to have a perfect table at the edge of the terrace. overlooking the lake. Service, from the moment we arrived, was fantastic. Attentive, friendly, elegant but never stuffy.

(   continued ...  )

This evening was lovely however, ever so slightly hazy, but cool with a soft breeze. And so we chose to sit outside. We took a table near the fence, to have an unobstructed view of the lake. I started with an Americano to drink. Campari with vermouth and a bit of soda, twist of orange. Someone brought us a few snacks to have with our aperitivi. 

(   continued ...   )

Recently we ate at Ristorante Lo Stornello, in Stresa. At one time it was a part of one of the hotels on via Cavour; now it is an independent restaurant in a good location in the center of town, between via Princepessa Margharita and via Roma. The interior, which had looked dated and uninviting, now looks fresh, clean, and more open, redone in shades of cool grey and white. The only pops of color are the thick water glasses; each table has a variety of bright, jewel-toned ones, an interesting and creative touch.  The exterior, at least for now, is unchanged. But the entire front is glass, making the inside changes instantly understood.                                                        

(   continued ...  )

Che esperienza! What an experience! If you: 1)Love cheese, 2)Have access to a car, and 3)Want to spend a day in Switzerland, then take notes and put this onto your must-do list. Visit Chateau de Villa, a restaurant in Sierre, Switzerland, that bills itself as "Le Temple de la Raclette." I, who love Raclette, and who has already eaten some pretty darn good Raclette in various places in France, Italy, and Switzerland, have never had a Raclette experience like this one. Imagine a wine tasting... but with five types of cheeses instead of wine. And housed in the charming fifteenth-century building pictured above.         

(   continued ... )

The exterior of Ristorante Pascia

When I wrote about the Michelin starred and recommended restaurants in and near Stresa recently, I had no idea how soon I would have the pleasure of eating in one. But here I was, spending an evening at Pascia, a one-starred Michelin restaurant about 20 minutes from Stresa, in the town of Invorio.  Pascia is located in a neighborhood that seems almost suburban, in a building that could be mistaken for an elegant house. Instead, it's a very elegant restaurant. So elegant that I felt nervous for some reason. We asked if we could take some photos, feeling nervous even to do that, and so I am able to share the dishes with you. 

Apart from the menu posted on the website, which changes regularly, there were also 'Chef's menus', flights of small dishes some of which were on the menu and some not. There was a traditional flight, which I suppose would consist of more recognizable dishes. We decided, however, to toss caution to the wind and go with the innovative flight. Allora.. here's how the evening progressed.