Sanctuario di Re -- The Sanctuary in Re

Today I'm going to tell you a story I like, about a church I like, in a town I like, and the miracle that happened there. Re is one of the small Piemonte mountain towns that you can stop and see if you take the Lago Maggiore Express train ride through the Italian and Swiss Alps. In fact, Re is the most easterly town in the Valle Vigezzo, and the last town where you can stop in Italy, being as it is located only 7 kilometers from the Swiss border. The sanctuary in Re has risen, over the centuries, around and above an ancient image of the Madonna breast-feeding her infant. This painting was frescoed on the outside wall of the ancient original church by an unknown artist sometime the 13th century. At that time the present sanctuary did not exist of course. What there was on the site was a small church dedicated to San Maurizio. But since the miraculous event, which took place there in 1494, the painting has been called "Madonna del Sangue," Madonna of the Blood. This story is about her and the beautiful sanctuary that has grown around her.

It was on the evening of April 29 of that year that one young Giovanni Zucono was playing with others outside the church. The game they were playing was called piodella; it was a game similar to baseball in that a short stick of wood was used to hit an object; in this case, the object was a metal disc, such as a coin, and the goal was to hit it as close as possible to a target. The story goes that this particular time Giovanni lost, and as so often happens with boys, he also lost his temper, and he flung his coin in the face of the Madonna on the wall. From the moment of impact, at the point where it hit, an outpouring of blood came from the wall, and the outpouring did not stop or subside for the twenty days that followed.


Immediately an altar was built in front of the image. Then, between 1606 and 1628 a church larger and more grand was built around the altar, incorporating the image inside. In 1894, on the 400th anniversary of the miracle, it was decided to build an even grander edifice. Work began in 1922 on the present byzantine-renaissance structure. In 1958 Pope Pius XII awarded the sanctuary with the designation of Basilica Minore.

The fresco is protected inside the sanctuary today. And in a tabernacle behind the altar an ampule of dried blood is preserved. Many scientific tests have been done on it, and the results well documented. And indeed, the residual marks on the fresco have been shown to be blood.

The sanctuary at Re is surprisingly large, and stunningly beautiful. Inside, it is unexpectedly modern, with contemporary stained-glass clerestory windows that reflect colored beams of light down onto the neutrally colored walls and the bright bolts of blue fabric which drape dramatically from the center of the dome, cascading down to the floor.




Each year, to commemorate the miracle of the Madonna del Sangue, a pilgrimage takes place, with the devout walking from Domodossola to the church. You can see it with much less effort, by disembarking the Lago Maggiore Express in Re, or driving up to the Valle Vigezzo, and stopping to visit for awhile.

I can tell I'm going to be molto, molto occupata, very busy, for the next few weeks just keeping you apprised of all the summer events taking place in Stresa. Here are three more; anyone with plans to be here soon, get out your calendars now.

Stresa Jazz: The interest in jazz here continues to grow. Note these dates, from July 3 to July 14, 2009, during which there will be five outstanding jazz performances in Stresa, at four different locations. Check the website www.stresajazz.it for the entire program and information; tickets are necessary for these performances; they range in price from 10 Euro to 15 Euro.


Solar Challenge: The Lago Maggiore 2009 Solar Challenge takes place over the weekend of July 11 and 12. This fun and very timely event is an international competition for small boats powered with solar clean and reusable energy sources. The boats will be judged based on their speed, agility, endurance, and design. In several of the port cities where the boats stop there will be a variety of other events as well. Here's more information about Solar Challenge.

Fireworks: Child at heart that I am, I love, love, love fireworks. And this is no ordinary fireworks exhibition. This is a series of six different fireworks displays, between July 26 and August 30, 2009, in five different towns surrounding Stresa. Each display is organized by a different fireworks company, representing six of the top from around the world -- China, Venezuela, Australia, Canada, Austria, and Italy will be the featured stars this year. Here's the schedule below... I wish I were in town for all six.

July 26, Sunday; 10 pm; Cascata del Toce
August 1; Saturday; 9:30 pm; Mergozzo
August 8; Saturday; 11 pm; Arona
August 14; Friday; 9:30 pm and 11 pm; Santa Maria Maggiore
August 23; Sunday; 9:30 pm; Omegna
August 30; 9:30 pm; Omegna

If you've been hanging around with me in these months you already know that Stresa has a town market each Friday. We've discussed here how getting a roast chicken is a weekly tradition, and how much I enjoy the everchanging display of goods depending on the season, the trends, and the vendors. The market is very popular with tourists as well as locals. It's the perfect place to practice a little bit of Italian. "Quanto costa?", "How much?". "Troppo caro!", "Too expensive!" Or, "Perfetto! Voglio questa.", "Perfect! I want this." And don't forget your "Grazie, buongiorno!"

But what if you're not going to be in Stresa on a Friday? Don't despair... you don't have to miss out on the market experience. Because a market very similar to this one, even with some of the same vendors, takes place in a town nearby here each day. Vendors need to buy a permit to sell in each town. And with the markets on different days, this gives the vendors the opportunity to sell as many or as few days as they want. Here's the schedule of the market towns and the days they hold their markets:

Sunday -- Cannobio
Monday -- Baveno
Tuesday -- Arona
Wednesday -- Orta San Giulio
Thursday -- Meina and Lesa
Friday -- Stresa
Saturday -- Verbania

So don't worry if you aren't here on a Friday. There's a market waiting for you every day of the week. Or, even if you are here on a Friday, try another one as well. Perche' no!, Why not!

If you like a swingin' beat, if you're looking for some crazy tunes, then you gotta get over to Lago Maggiore right now, where there are three major Jazz events taking place. Indoors and out, individual jazz musicians and world-famous groups, it's all happening here.

First, today finds four different groups performing in various venues around Stresa, all as part of the New Orleans in Stresa Festival. This festival, in turn, is part of Jazz Ascona, a large jazz festival that takes place in Ascona, on the Swiss side of Lago Maggiore, this year from June 25 through July 5. These are the bands participating and the locations you'll find them in Stresa today:

Here's a link for the official schedule, with a map and list of alternative locations in the event of bad weather.

As part of this festival the Hurricane Jazz Band will be performing on a special jazz cruise tonight, departing from the Baveno imbarcadero at 7:00 p.m. and cruising around the Borromean Islands.

Thursday Jazz also returns now to Cafe Bar La Verbanella. And not just this week; there will be a different jazz performance each Thursday evening at the cafe from now through September. Verbanella, and the bar inside which is called Willy's Cocktail Bar, are located directly on the Lungolago, Corso Umberto, centrally in the middle of Stresa. These Serate di Jazz, Evenings of Jazz, have been a big success in past years, and some of the most popular performers will be returning this summer as well. Tomorrow evening come and listen to Brass Joy, known for reviving famous jazz music from films.


As I said, this week, in Stresa and Lago Maggiore, it really is about All That Jazz...


Top photo courtesy of Jazz Ascona.

Borromean Islands, Golfo Borromeo, the Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees... You can't turn around without running into the name Borromeo here. But just who were these Borromeos? Since you'll encounter them so much, I think it's time that we get to know them a little better.

It seems that the Borromeo family were aristocrats from San Miniato, in Toscana, since at least the 12th century, when the first known records of them appear. But after having been exiled from that area they headed north to Lago Maggiore, where they quickly established themselves in finance and real estate. They soon became well known in the Arona area, and starting to play an important role in the politics of Milan as well as the Catholic Reformation.

1367 - Probably the first member of the family to come to prominence was Filippo who, backed by Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, led the Ghibellines of San Miniato in their revolt against the Florentine Guelphs. Unfortunately Filippo was captured by the Florentines, and beheaded in 1370. His five children had taken refuge in Milan during the fighting.

1446 - The Duke of Milan, Filippo Maria Visconti, to thank the descendants of Filippo for his service and sacrifice, bestowed many gifts and titles to them. Vitaliano Borromeo was made the first Count of Arona in 1446. In 1449 he was also given possession of the Rocca, the large fortress on Lago Maggiore in Angera. For centuries the medieval fortress, and other castles along Lago Maggiore, protected the Borromeans stronghold here.

1538 - Carlo Borromeo is born at Rocca di Angera. He is the son of Gilberto, the Count of Arona, and Margherita de'Medici, who was the sister of Pope Pius IV. At the age of 22, after spending most of his life in an abbey, Carlo became a Cardinal of the Roman Catholic Church. He will later go on to become the Archbishop of Milan, and a canonized saint. The giant, climbable statue in Arona, the one locals affectionately call Carlone, Big Carlo, is of him. A good man, Carlo was said to have been. He tried to reform the corruptions in the church, and suffered assassination attempts for this. During an outbreak of plague in 1576, Carlo never attempted to protect himself, ministering to the sick instead, and burying the dead. It was of a fever that he himself died, some years later, in 1584. He was canonized in 1610. That's Carlo to the right, painted by Giovanni Ambrogio.

1600s - While Carlo of course left no heirs, his cousin Federico, and Federico's nephews, especially Carlos lll, began the long line of Borromeos to develop and build on the islands they called Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola dei Pescatori.

1632 - Count Vitaliano Borromeo begins construction on the fantastic palace and gardens on Isola Bella. That's Vitaliano, painted by Saloman Adler, to the right. By that time the palace on Isola Madre was already almost 100 years old. The islands became a destination for nobility and the rich and famous from all over Europe, thanks to Vitaliano.

Wars, castles, Medicis, cardinals, Popes... The Borromeos have been a part of all of it for almost 1000 years. Direct descendents have lived on the island in the Palazzo Borromeo continuously for all this time. And while no longer officially royalty, the Borromeos, and their rich heritage, have left a lasting mark on this area of northern Italy, are such an integral part of Stresa's history, and they have created many of treasures that people come here to visit today. Tuscany's loss was certainly Lago Maggiore's gain.

Colleague and I often discuss what makes for the perfect day in Stresa. By this, we mean the perfect day for the tourist who, sadly, has only one full day to spend here, and for whom this is their first visit. We receive a lot of mail about this as well, and therefore, we talk about.

Let's say that you've arrived early this morning, or perhaps the night before. You're here. This is how we think you should spend this day:

Start with cappuccino. Or a caffe latte. Or a caffe macchiato. Whatever your favorite Italian morning coffee is. Have it at the Gigi Bar, Bravi Bar, or Jolly Bar. Those three places have delicious croissants made fresh on the premises all morning. This is how we want you to get yourself into your Italian mood for the day.

After, walk along the lake to the boat station. If it's early in the day, I'm recommending that you walk to the opposite station from where you are. So if you are near the Carciano station walk along the lake to the Stresa imbarcadero, or vice versa. We don't need to rush, we have all day, the walk is beautiful, and I want you to see it.

Buy the island excursion ticket which grants you access to all three Borromean islands. And in the next hours, we think you should try to at least stop on all three. Although close to each other, and close to Stresa, they are so different. It is a case of the whole being far greater than the sum of their parts.

Isola Bella: The main island, and where you may need the most time. Buy the admission ticket to the Palazzo Borromeo and walk through the self-guided tour. The route through the palace winds through a series of public and private spaces, then down a flight of stairs and into the mysterious grotto, and finally, releases you into the famous and magical gardens. When you've had your fill of peacocks, statues, and ten-tiers of plantings exit the garden and get lost a bit in the medieval village alongside of it. Eat when you want, drink when you want, I'll leave that to you and your appetite.

Isola Madre: This is the largest island of the three. It's also famous for its gardens, especially the collections of azalea, rhodedendrens, camelia, and wisteria. The early sixteenth century villa has been open to the public since the 1700s, and like Isola Bella, don't be surprised to meet a few peacocks, pheasants, and parrots roaming free along the way.

Isola dei Pescatori: Tiny Pescatori, not much more than a collection of houses and narrow alleys, but so charming. You won't need a lot of time here to actually see the island, but I'd like you to be sure to leave some time here to relax and enjoy the island.

The Spell of Stresa, Stresa d'Incanto. It's difficult to find an adjective, one adjective, that can describe this landscape of lakes, mountains, and islands. An adjective that, on its own, would be sufficient to categorize this city of Stresa, also known as the Pearl of Lago Maggiore. Perhaps incantevole, meaning spellbinding, magical, enchanting, perhaps it comes close.

Stresa d'Incanto, with images by Verbanese photographer Claudio Fogli, and written by Gisela Motta, of Stresa, is the latest book in a series by Alberti publishers entitled Verbano Illustrated. Twenty four years after the debut of the series, and with this, the twenty-sixth installation, finally a book that is devoted only to Stresa, its villages, and its islands. Recognizing the international nature and appeal of this location, the text of the book has been translated into four languages, Italian, English, French, and German, but the photographs, instead, they speak only one language, the language of the landscape.

Beginning from the lake, at its center, the islands, the book then moves the reader on a journey to the shoreline, exalting in the lavish architecture of the hotels, then rising again, to the Villa Pallavicino, with its gardens and small zoo, then rising again to the wonders of the Giardino Botanico Alpinia.

And at the summit, the flowering fullness of the summer makes way to the immaculate whiteness of the snows atop Mt. Mottarone in the winter, which contrast so beautifully with the blues of the lake below. In between the lake and the summit, there are numerous references to the villages, the monuments, and the many mentions of the philosopher Rosmini and the nobility that are such a part of Stresa's history.

So much attention is given in our beautiful region to the wines of the Langhe - Barbaresco, Barolo, Nebbiolo and more - that it seems all the other Piemontese wineries fall into its shadow. Realistically, the wines of the Langhe are among the most expensive and some of the most balanced and structured wines in the world, and deserve the respect and attention (if not always the price tag) which they receive.

That's the opening paragraph of an article written by my good friend, Diana Strinati Baur. In this article, entitled Tre Belle Cose, Three Beautiful Things, she gives us an inside glimpse into three small and special wineries producing lesser known, but very much worth getting to know, Piemontese wines. Not only would these be worth searching out in a wine bar or enoteca, this is also a great idea for a day trip to these towns in the Piemonte countryside. Here's the article, with some of Diana's photographs, in full. It's good reading, about good drinking, and gorgeous places... Enjoy!

Tre Belle Cose - Three Distinctly Different Vineyards in Southwestern Piemonte

So much attention is given in our beautiful region to the wines of the Langhe - Barbaresco, Barolo, Nebbiolo and more - that it seems all the other Piemontese wineries fall into its shadow. Realistically, the wines of the Langhe are among the most expensive and some of the most balanced and structured wines in the world, and deserve the respect and attention (if not always the price tag) which they receive.

Andrea Mutti - Le Colline Tortonese

Location: San Ruffino 49 Sarezzano
aziendaagricola.mutti@libero.it
Telephone: 0131 884119
Andrea's wife Adrina speaks English well.
Producer of Cortese, Savignon Blanc, Cabernet, Dolcetto, Barbera and Timmorasso

Domenico Botto

Giovanni Scaglione

The photovoltaic panels on the first building, we learned, are to power one of two presses. The first press is an old manual one, over a hundred years old. It is only powered by human muscle. The other, a modern press, is powered by the panels.

Just enough news to enjoy with a slice of cheesecake...

Yes, I know, I know, normally we share our news over a cup of cappuccino and a brioche, but due to my computer being (still!) in the repair shop, how about we talk about what's happening in Stresa while we partake of this cheesecake that I made today.

Many musical events scheduled in Stresa... Here are some highlights.

Jazz is back. Cafe Bar la Verbanella, located right on the lungolago across from the Regina Palace Hotel, has brought back for another year their very successful Thursday Jazz Evenings. Each Thursday, from now through September, a different jazz band or artist will entertain. June's performers are listed here.

If you prefer classical, Friday, June 19th, at the Hotel des Iles Borromees, as part of the Festival Internazionale Associazione Musicale Dino Ciani Concerti, Mendelsohn's Variations will be performed in the Sala Minerva. This concert is also part of an ongoing summer series, for a look at the schedule, click here.

The XIX Festival Organistico Internazionale is also taking place now; five organ concerts by five different masters, all at Chiesa Santi Ambrogio e Theodulo in Stresa. This week's performance, Sunday evening at 9:30 PM, features Rubin K. Abdullin, from Russia.

How about a different kind of sound now? This Sunday, June 14, you'll be able to hear the roar of dozens of automobiles that are taking part in the 45th annual Rally Valli Ossolane. Twice during the day the cars will race for time up and down the winding mountain roads that lead from Stresa through it's frazione, villages, Levo, Carciano, and Someraro. Very exciting, certainly, but better to watch from a safe spot, and plan your day around not needing a car, as roads in and out of town will be closed for some time. What sort of rally is this? Take a look at this moment from the 2007 race for an idea:




Let's end on a quiet, peaceful, note. Get away from it all at the Giardino Botanico Alpinia this Sunday, where there will be special demonstrations on how to construct a bird feeder and artificial nests, as well as guided walks through the gardens trails.

Stresa Sights needs to take a short intermission due to some technical difficulties, namely, my beloved laptop is in the repair shop. The computer I'm using now doesn't have the resources I need to effectively work on the blog. Therefore, in the meantime, I'd like to offer a link to a beautiful collection of photographs taken by Janet Zinn, a wonderful photographer who recently visited Stresa, Piemonte, the Ligurian coast, and Torino. You can take a look at all of Janet's recent travel photos here.

This is a link to a nice, user-friendly, ready-to-print map of Stresa that the Tourist office of the city produces. While it doesn't have a scale for distance, it is uncluttered, clearly marks the streets in Stresa, as well as parking areas, the train station, and well known landmark buildings. enough information to get a good sense of where you are and where you want to be.

When you print, the map will be on two pages. Simply cut the white center margins and tape the halves together. It will make for a nice planning tool, or handy extra map.

For some sense of scale, from the zoo on the western side of Stresa to the Carciano imbarcadero and the cableway on the eastern side of Stresa is a distance of about one mile (1.6 kilometers).