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Monday, January 31, 2011

Tours: Villages of Tuscany Workshop

This could be you... on a photo workshop in Tuscany.

Quick news from Gina at Villa Vita about one of her most popular programs. There are only two spaces remaining for this spring's Villages of Tuscany Photo Workshop. The week-long program with photographer Joel Wolfson will be from May 14 to 21 this year. Here's the link to all of the info:

Villages of Tuscany Photo Workshop

This program will have you looking at your surroundings everywhere with new eyes, and teach you how to capture what you see with those eyes onto film. And here's a good idea... after the program, if you intend to remain longer in Italy, why not bring those new skills up to Lago Maggiore and try them out here in Stresa? It is, after all, another one of Italy's truly photogenic locations.

It's that time of year again! Time to be planning vacations! I know I'm getting many many questions and requests for information. As Stresa Sights has over 300 posts now the site is full of helpful resources and links. Try the search tool on the upper left of the blog, and if you can't find what you're looking for don't hesitate to write to us! Happy planning a tutti!



Monday, January 24, 2011

FYI: Profile of Piedmont (Piemonte)


Wasn't it fun spending the day with Joe in Alba, at the Pio Cesare vineyard, in the last two posts? Alba, in the Cuneo province of the region of Piemonte, could be considered the heart of Piemonte's wine country, where the wines are by many considered the best wines in all of Italy, if not the world, but there is so much more to this region than just grapes. If you are now planning your trip to Stresa or other points in Piemonte (and notice that I always use Piemonte, the Italian name, rather than the anglecized version Piedmont, because after all, that is what you will be hearing, reading, and using here, and so I'd like that you start to use it also), here are just a few basic starter facts about this area you'll be coming to. Italy's north has a history quite different from the south, which accounts for the completely different styles, foods, and influences. Stresa is in the Verbano-Cusio-Ossola province, making almost as far north as one can go in Italy. But it is no less "Italian" here; in fact I find it quite fascinating this complicated mix of cultures and dynasties that has made Northern Italy what it is today.

From the website Understanding Italy here is a very brief history and summary of Piemonte:

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Piedmont is the second largest of the Italian regions with Sicily being the largest. It has an area of 25,399 square kilometres and a population of about 4.3 million. The capital of Piedmont is Turin (Torino). It is surrounded on three sides by the alps, and shares borders with France and Switzerland as well as the Italian regions of Lombardy, Liguria, Aosta Valley and Emilia-Romagna. The provinces are Alessandria, Asti, Biella, Cuneo, Novara, Torino, Verbano-Cusio-Ossola and Vercelli.

Piedmont is the historical home of the Savoy family, previous rulers of Italy, who have left behind a fabulous legacy of opulent, baroque palaces. Visitors searching for history and culture can also enjoy many other medieval fortresses and castles as well as more than 40 museums. However, Piedmont's magical, flowing landscapes remain one of the region's greatest attractions. Piedmont is also famous for its cuisine. Highlights include their sought-after white truffles, great wines such as Barolo and Barbaresco, various sweets and deserts, Vermouth, and the hazelnut-chocolate confection we know as Nutella.

Turin (Torino), situated on the banks of the river Po, was once a major European political centre, and was Italy's first capital city in 1861. It is a major industrial centre, ranked third after Rome and Milan and is the 78th richest city in the world. The city is also famous for being the home of the Shroud of Turin and of Italian football team Juventus. Turin is the headquarters of Fiat, Lancia and Alfa Romeo. In 2006 Turin hosted the Winter Olympics and continues to provide excellent facilities for a wide range of winter sports.


Italy comprises twenty regions, of which Piemonte is one. The regions are then divided into provinces, for example Verbano-Cusio-Ossola. Provinces are further divided into comunes, such as Stresa. And comunes can have frazione, small villages that are parts of them. Stresa has 11 frazione, such as Carciano and Someraro for example.

The Understanding Italy website is full of quick and easy information such as this. Thanks to my travel colleague, Gina, of Villa Vita, for leading me to this site.








Thursday, January 20, 2011

Wine: The Wines of Pio Cesare


Pio Cesare vines in Alba.

Yesterday we read the first half of the wine column Annechino on Vino, written by my friend Joe, in which he lets us join him on his day trip to Alba, in the heart of Piemonte's wine country. Today let's continue with the second half, in which Joe tells us about some of the wines produced by the Pio Cesare vineyard.

Part 2... The Wines of Pio Cesare

One of the oldest operations in the area was started in 1881 by a fellow named Cesare Pio. But the walls within which he worked are even older. They were built back in the 1st century -- B.C.! Today, another Cesare, the fifth generation of the family, manages more modern facilities. Among them are new fermentation, racking, and aging areas -- one of which lies some 40 feet under the ancient building that dates from the era of the Roman Empire.

Although the Pio Cesare company owns over 130 acres of vineyards, it also closely supervises the work of associate growers from whom it continues to purchase crops, as it has for a number of generations. Each area has superior characteristics and is widely recognized by its own name. For example:

Barbera d'Alba, made from 100% Barbera grapes grown in the Barolo area and aged for 18 months. Its blackberry and plum aromas are quite prominent.

Gavi (or Cortese di Gavi). The vineyards are in the Gavi area; the wine is 100% Cortese grapes. It's a particularly pleasing pick.

Dolcetto d'Alba, a fresh, fragrant, and spicy wine made from 100% Dolcetto grapes. It's a great mate with pasta pomodoro, tomato, one of my favorites.

Moscato d'Asti, world famous for its fruity flavor, this is a familiar favorite due to its frizzante, bubbly, finish.

Pio Cesare Barolo, an Italian classic, made entirely from Nebbiolo grapes. It's one of those wines which, like us, gets even better with age.

Other prominent Pio Cesare products include those from the famous family-owned Ornato and Il Bricco estates, touted as "top vineyards in the whole Barolo area." Among the most notable are their Barbaresco and "Piodilei" Chardonnay, a wonderful white wine made from grapes of their very first Chardonnay vines.

Pio Cesare also produces wines made from Freisa, Arnese, and Grignolino grapes. These last three are not readily available in all parts of the U.S. That's unfortunate, because my experience with the Grignolino del Monferrato Casalese was uniformly memorable due to its peppery aroma and raspberry flavor.

With so many Barbaresco and Barolo wines available with top-tier ratings, those of Pio Cesare offer solid value, without top-tier pricing. Try them and see if you agree.

Fearing we'd find no fulfilling alternative to simply hanging close to the airport, wasting a whole day, we began to doubt the wisdom of getting there before the last minute. But after Alba we were convinced that, as usual, it's better to be early. On future trips, we'll again be allotting an extra day.


Read Part 1 of The Wines of Pio Cesare here.


Pio Cesare Langhe Nebbiolo



Wednesday, January 12, 2011

Wine: The Wines of Pio Cesare




Joe, who is in my Italian class, writes a very entertaining column on wine. The column is called Annechino on Vino. I love Joe's columns... He always makes me feel like I'm right there, traveling through Italy with him. This column is about an extra day he had in Piemonte, and how he spent it visiting the vineyard of the Pio Cesare company. I'll print the first half of Joe's column today, and the second part, about the Pio Cesare wines, tomorrow.

With Joe's permission, I give you Piedmont Picks:

While leaving Lombardy late last year, a couple of life's perennially prevailing questions came to mind, demanding reconsideration. What, we wondered, were the occasions for which it was better to be late than to be early? And, of more relevance for future planning, what category did the situation in which we found ourselves that day belong?

Except for determining which weekend we'll plan to visit our newly discovered relatives in Benevento, our trips to Italy require only two dates -- the day of arrival and the day of departure. And since most trips begin and end in Rome, we've long been familiar with the areas and addresses of our preferred accommodations.

This time however, we had planned to return home from Milan, whose airport I had been to on only one previous occasion. So in case we encountered any surprises along the way, an extra night's stay at a nearby hotel seemed like a prudent precaution to prepare for our morning flight out. But then the question arose of how to enjoy the extra day that we had as a result of getting to Malpensa so early.

By now you know that one of the principal pleasures we derive from Italy... is? Of course! So, realizing that we were within an hour's drive of one of the world's greatest areas for growing grapes, it was easy to agree upon the most desirable destination.

Italy's north-west is well worth wandering about for an entire vacation. But we had only a single day. So it was best to limit our visit to an area that most broadly mirrored the rest of the region ... and in Piemonte, it's the town of Alba.

Now, here's a little town with some mighty big attractions! There's the familiar Ferrero candies, the food emporium Eataly (now also in Manhattan) and perhaps the world's most priciest product, the precious white truffle. But its most notable agricultural attraction is produced by the nearly 300 wineries whose wines are among the very best in the world...

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Come back tomorrow to read Part 2, about the wines of Pio Cesare!



Saturday, January 8, 2011

FAQ: Children's Ski Lessons At Mottarone


Our friend Emma reports in from Mt. Mottarone with lots of good information about the children's ski school. Mottarone has a wonderful program, called Stella Alpina, that provides lessons, fun, and care to children over 3 years of age. Children can be watched for a full day, from 9.30 am until 4.00 pm. Or, individual lessons can be reserved. Here is some other useful information:

Children's equipment can be rented at The Squirrel Rental Shop, which is located near the top of the chairlift, just down the hill from the summit. Here's the link to their rental prices: http://www.mottaroneski.it/it/noleggio_attrezzature.php

And if you will be here for an extended period you can rent all the ski gear you will need from Sportway for 80 euro.

Children's lessons cost 30 euro each at the time of this writing and can be reserved in advance by sending an email to Mottarone at:
info@mottaroneski.it

Current information is available at: www.mottaroneski.com

Ski lift tickets vary in price. Emma tells us the weekends can be busy. Not only are they much more crowded but the prices are higher. Children under 5 years of age can ski free with a parent or guardian.

Children will often see the Mt. Mottarone mascot, Motty, on the mountain, and maybe they'll even ski with him!


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Where to eat and warm up after? Of course you can try the very popular Casa della Neve near the chairlift. Warm up by the fire and with some of the famous fil da fer (that's for you, and the italian version of hot chocolate, cioccolata calda, for the kids!) But if you don't feel like a big meal to-do Emma suggests the Bar Alpi, which is situated at the bottom of Baby 1, next to The Squirrel Rental Shop. She recommends their light lunches and panini, and if it is one of those warm sunny skiing days you can enjoy your break on their outdoor tables.

We have spoken often of Mt. Mottarone and all its attractions; if you search the posts tagged winter, or search for Mottarone in the search box, you'll find more information and links. I'm hoping that this post will get you started on a family day at Mottarone, and remind you again what a fun, not-to-be-missed place it is.




Wednesday, January 5, 2011

Event: The Kings Are Arriving!



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Passing through the streets of Stresa today will be Joseph, Mary, lots of little angels, chimney sweeps, shepherds, and pipers, and of course, the three Wise Men, Melchior, Caspar, and Balthasar. It's time for the annual procession of the Re Magi, which takes place in Stresa each Epifania. The chimney sweeps might not be expected in most processions of the wise men but they hold a special place in the hearts of the people around here. A century ago, many men from the Valle Vigezzo to the north made their living as chimney sweeps; there is even a museum dedicated to the work, and therefore they have an important place in this particular pageant. The procession will begin at the Palazzo dei Congressi, at 2.30 in the afternoon. After a course through the streets of central Stresa they will arrive at the Villa Ducale, where in the park a manger has been set up. A narrative will be broadcast to accompany the procession on its journey, as they visit the old fashioned shops that have been stationed around the center of town, before they arrive at the manger. And at 3.30 the kings will leave the manger and arrive at the palace of King Herod, which is, conveniently, located also in the gardens of Villa Ducale.

In Piazza Cadorna, beginning at noon, you can feast on polenta with cinghiale (wild boar), gorgonzola, tripe and grilled sausages (salamelle), as well as tortelli and egg-fried apples.

The procession of the kings is organized by the Pro Loco di Stresa tourist association and the City of Stresa, and would not be possible without the collaboration of citizens associations and the approximately 50 participants.

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