On the very first day that I was ever in Stresa, Giuseppe and I drove to Switzerland. Maybe you're wondering why... but that's another story. So there we were, driving towards Locarno, Switzerland, on the road that runs along Lago Maggiore. At one point Giuseppe pulled the car over to the side of the road and stopped, to show me a house that he liked. The house was lower than where we were standing on the road, and so we were looking over it, to the lake beyond. The house was lovely to be sure, a world apart on its piece of land on the edge of the lake. But it was the view that the house had, of the lake, that captured me. Were those castles?

Castles... or more precisely ruins of castles, were floating on two small islands in the lake, really only a stone's throw from this house. Giuseppe was nonchalant... here on Lago Maggiore it could easily happen to have a view of castles from your house apparently. Remember, it was only my first day on the lake... I didn't know yet about the magic in all its corners.

So what were these castles? Here's a bit of their story, interspersed with some stunning photographs of them.

They're called i Castelli di Cannero, the Castles of Cannero, due to their location only a short distance from the shores of the lake in the town of Cannero. And they are the remains of the Rocca Vitaliana, a fortress constructed between 1519 and 1521 by Ludovico Borromeo, who named them Vitaliano in honor of his illustrious grandfather, Vitaliano Borromeo. But those ruins, they were built on the top of other preexisting ruins. The earliest fortifications on the islands date to the 12th century. And in the early 1400s the five Mazzarditi brothers used the islands as their headquarters during their cruel reign. They had captured the village of Cannobio, and this began an era of domination, violence and raids that the Mazzarditi inflicted on all the people living in the coastal villages and towns. The Mazzarditi reign of terror ended when the Visconti lay seige to the fortress, forcing the Mazzarditi to surrender by leaving them to starve on the islands. Their buildings fell into ruin and were distroyed, so much so that not even a trace remains of them today.

But the Rocca Vitaliano, it was a defense used by the Borromeos against the Swiss raids in this eastern region of Lago Maggiore. The principal part of the fortress, that being the part more to the east, is still a massive wall of stone, rising directly from the surface of the water, following the irregular course of the rocks; and the towers also still remain partially intact.


On the smaller island however, there remains now only one lone tower, cut off from the others, and some remnants of wall that continue to slowly crumble.


The Castelli di Cannero are visible from many places along the waterfront, and many of the ferries that traverse that part of the lake will go as close to them as possible for photos and gazing. They are now, at the time of this writing, undergoing a renovation of sorts by the Borromeo family, possibly for touristic purposes, a subject somewhat controversial, as the renovation was fought against by certain environmental groups. But when I saw them on that first day, unrenovated and unanticipated in the lake, they became for me instantly one of the symbols of the magical nature of this beautiful and strange place.


All photos courtesy of Lago Maggiore, le sue Valle, i soui Fiori, www.illagomaggiore.com.

And the best news of all is ... they are all FREE!

I've been adding quite a few summer events to the blog calendar. So far all are annual events that have been taking place for many summers now in Stresa. Many are events that recur several times throughout the season. Many are not well known to the average tourist unless you are lucky enough to stumble onto them. And all of these are essentially free of cost. Take a look to see what's happening when you'll be here. When choosing where to have your evening aperitivo, or where to take your stroll, combining it with one of these free performances may really enhance your trip.

Jazz at Caffe Bar Verbanella: Jazz every Thursday evening in Willy's Cocktail Bar in Verbanella. A different group performs each week.

Anteprima for the Ascona Jazz Festival: This is only one evening, but what an evening... the preview performance of the Ascona Jazz Festival. Six bands in different locations throughout Stresa. Check the calendar for the list of performers.

12th Edition World Championship of Fireworks: From July 24 through August 22, seven special fireworks exhibitions in different locations in the area. Read the post and see the schedule here.

21st annual Festival Internazionali dell'Associazione Musicale Dino Ciani: Many, many free musical performances, most at the Regina Palace Hotel, all free. The entire schedule can be seen here.

XX Edition International Organ Festival: Already begun and continuing through June 12, a series of free performances on the historic organ inside la chiesa Parracchiale SS Ambrogio e Theodulo, Stresa's main church, featuring some of the best organists in the world. Read the post and see the schedule here.

This list is by no means complete. New events are added all the time, and this list does not include the Stresa Music Festival or other performances which require purchasing a ticket. I hope however, it gives you some options you may not have known about before.

The recent rains may have delayed things a bit but now it looks like construction is back on track... for the long tobaggan track being built atop Mt. Mottarone. Weather permitting from this point on, the new summer attraction should be open to the public by the beginning of July. It is said that the experience will be like flying over the lake...


Entente Florale
Last year Stresa was chosen as the most beautiful floral city in Italy, in the category of cities with a population of less than 20,000. And now, on June 16, judges will revisit Stresa. This time, Stresa will be judged against the other winning small cities in Europe, cities such as Emly, Ireland, Beauvais, France, and Havirov in the Czech Republic for the grand award of the most beautiful floral city in all of Europe. The contest, by the way, is not judged on public spaces but on private ones. Therefore, this means they will be looking at the balconies, the gardens of private residences, the overall beauty created by Stresa's own citizens around their own homes. This award is quite an honor, no matter what happens after the judges visit in June.


Lago Maggiore Among Top Twenty Destinations in Italy
Readers of TripAdvisor have decided, and they have included Lago Maggiore among the top twenty destinations in Italy, placing it at number 19. Furthermore, they have voted that Isola Bella, the Parco Villa Pallavicino, and the cablecar ride to the top of Mt. Mottarone are among the sights in Stresa not to be missed. We are in total agreement... and we expect Stresa and Lago Maggiore to continue their climb up this chart.

This statue is found near Cafe Verbanella, behind the restaurant, and as you can see, close to the water's edge...

I noticed the first of the new Carrara marble statues almost immediately upon my arrival in Stresa, and it was explained to me that it was one of a set of three. At the first opportunity I went walking with my camera to find the other two. Interesting artworks...

Back in May 2007, three blocks of marble of equal size were given to three internationally known sculptors. Housed outside the Villa La Palazzola on the lungolago, the three artists worked, side by side, between May 12 and May 27, 2007, using the technique called a togliere -- to remove -- the technique typical of stone sculptors.

This unique exhibition not only gave the artists the opportunity to collaborate and exchange ideas with each other; it also gave tourists and passersby the chance to watch, step by step, as the works were revealed.



The three artists are:


Hattori Koh-Emon was born in Japan in 1947 and studied art at Brera. He works with various materials and his works can be seen in many places throughout Italy, Europe, and Japan.

Here's a nice detour to incorporate into your stroll along the lungolago. As guest writer Tony points out, not many know that it is possible and permitted to enter the gardens of the five-star Hotel Iles des Borromees. I didn't know this either... although I have stepped inside a few times to take a peek because the gate was open. It is nice to know that it is allowed... So please do... feel free to enter; be respectful of course, but stroll, admire, and, as Tony says, enjoy...

From the first performance on July 24, 2010 at the Toce Waterfalls, to the grand finale on August 29 in Omegna, the 12th edition of the World Championship of Fireworks promises to be even bigger and more spectacular than ever."Fiori di Fuoco," flowers of fire, will use some of the most gorgeous natural settings of the region as backdrops for these fireworks displays. The Toce Waterfalls in Formazza Valley, the second highest waterfall in the Alps at 143 meters, will be the location of the first event, and the last event, in Omegna, will feature a musical fireworks show. The rest of the locations are just as enchanting. Here's the entire 2010 schedule:

For current information on this annual event check the website: www.fioridifuoco.it

Bresaola and radicchio pizza... This is my favorite pizza to eat when I'm here in Stresa. Maybe because it's a pizza that I'd never heard of before... or maybe it's because it was the first dinner that I ever had here... or maybe just because it is that good.

Every tourist wants to eat pizza when they are here in Italy, and I am no different. One always wants to compare it to their pizza at home. For me, the differences were several. Here in Stresa, pizza was definitely a fork and knife food; there were no slices precut. And the large pie was intended to be a meal for one, all for me. So, I just began cutting and eating. The pie ordered for me was a bresaola and radicchio pizza, and although I've tried other pizzas since, this one remains my favorite. Bresaola are paper-thin slices of meat, beef or sometimes horse. They are not cooked but either dried or cured, and then shaved into thin pieces. They can be a little dry on their own, which is why they are generally served with something which contains a bit of olive oil, to moisten them up. And radicchio is red chicory, crisp and crunchy.

At first I thought perhaps this was a regional specialty, but it turns out that it's more a specialty of the Ristorante Nazionale, in Baveno, where we ate it. It's just one of many interesting combinations of toppings you can find on the pizza here. And although I am sure you may be able to find it again at other restaurants somewhere, I still haven't seen this pizza anywhere else except Nazionale. Therefore, you'll need to come here to try it. Or, if not this one, to discover your own favorite.


Piazza Dante Alighieri, 17
+39 0323 924529.

There is no regular service to Arona from Stresa by ferry, and the best way to reach La Rocca requires first getting to Arona by car, train, or ferry, and then switching to the ferry that brings you across the lake to La Rocca. Going home, of course one must do the same. Here's an alternative, a nicer way to see the medieval castle along with some other sights; but you can only do this on a Tuesday.

Fabri runs a small boat tour every Tuesday that covers the highlights of the southern leg of Lago Maggiore. This trip takes all day, but what a nice day it will be, and what sights you'll see. After meeting in Stresa the boat transports you to Arona. Tuesday is chosen because Tuesday just happens to be market day in Arona, and it happens to be the biggest market on this side of the lake. You'll have some time to shop the market, or, if not that, to take in the sights of Arona. Arona is much larger than Stresa, with a wealth of shopping, architecture, and museums. Then head to Angera, where La Rocca is located. Take time to picnic along the shore of the lake with a lunch provided from Rosaria at La Cambusa. You know it will be perfect. And after lunch, walk up to the castle, or, if you'd like to avoid the uphill walk through the woods, take advantage of the taxi that Fabri's company has waiting to shuttle you to the entrance. Then spend the afternoon wandering through the halls, gardens, and museums of the fortress. Later, back on the small, private boat ride back to Stresa, you'll ride past the sanctuary of Santa Caterina del Sasso, pausing long enough to get some photos of this incredible structure embedded in the side of the mountain. And you'll be back in Stresa in time to rest up before your dinner, full of images and memories to last a lifetime.

Quite a perfect combination of elements in this day, and yet, so relaxing as you let Fabri's crew do the work for you. All of the guides speak English, and all will entertain and educate you with history, stories, and facts along the way. And the price is very reasonable. Take a look at this tour package, and all the other packages that maggiorediscovery.com offers on their site, or, let us help you incorporate this into the perfect Stresa vacation for you.

Enjoy these related posts: