In almost every Italian town there is a piazza, the open public square which is the center of the town's public life. A piazza can be large, such as the Piazza del Campo in Siena, or just a small intersection where no traffic is allowed, such as Piazza Wagner in Milano. It can be a traditional square with the town church at the center, or some other shape, as is the oval Piazza dell'Anfiteatro in Lucca.

Stresa has at its center Piazza Cadorna. Only 100 meters inland from the Stresa imbarcadero, and pretty much truly geographically in the center of town, Piazza Cadorna is the spot where everyone gathers to meet, to watch, to eat, to listen, or to fare niente, to do nothing at all. It's difficult to believe that only a few years ago this bustling piazza wasn't what you see today. In winter months the open space was used as a parking lot. In summer, the cars were prohibited and restaurants allowed to use the space. But it's only within the past five years or so that the area has been closed permanently to traffic and used exclusively as a piazza. To me, it is a sign of the growing renaissance of Stresa, and of the understanding of the great value and meaning that a piazza gives to a small town such as this. It also allowed the piazza to develop its own style, with planters and flowers, and it has encouraged the restaurants and shops to invest in better tables, chairs, and lights that give it the special ambiance that it now has.

The piazza is lined with a nice selection of better shops, including those for books, eyewear, cosmetics, shoes, jewelry, stationery, and leather. A few small hotels, such as Hotel Elena, open onto the piazza. There are at least three gelato shops. The center of the piazza has been filled with the chairs and tables of various restaurants in a tight square pattern. Overhead, the umbrellas are large, and touching each other, creating an outdoor roof. Little lights and greenery complete the setting. Around the periphery all the restaurants have done the same, with tables extending out into the piazza. Waiters rush back and forth from kitchens out into the square, trays balanced on one hand.


I spent a lot of time in Piazza Cadorna this summer. I met friends for cappuccinos and shakeratos at Cafe Nazionale. I enjoyed several gelati at L'Angelo del Gelato. One evening, a jazz band played on a make-shift stage on the western side of the square; many of the restaurant chairs had been put into use to create curved seating for the audience. While the band played, a painter worked on a thirty-foot long mural close by, painting as inspired by the music. Another lovely evening, late, I shared pizzas with Colleague at Cafe Torino. Although almost midnight, the restaurant, in fact all the piazza, was still crowded. Joe Diverio played the piano at Cafe Torino that night, popular sing-a-long songs in Italian, German, French, and English. Touristy? Yes it was... Fun? You bet.

Many of the readers who write to me are traveling to Stresa with their young children. Often, they are concerned about whether the little ones will enjoy the area. I think the best advice is the same that would pertain to traveling with children anywhere. Don't overload them, don't expect them to enjoy too many non-age-appropriate things, and don't tire them out but then expect them to sit through long restaurant meals with you. Let's keep their interests in mind too; after all, it's also their vacation.

That said, fortunately several of the most popular attractions in Stresa will, by their very nature, keep both young and old entertained. Here are three definitely kid-friendly activites right in Stresa that you'll all enjoy together:

Parco and Zoo Pallavicino: Remember recently we spoke about this place? The zoo that is also a garden, or, is it the garden with a zoo? Either way, jump on the little train at the Stresa imbarcadero and spend some time visiting both plants and animals. Make sure you stop for a snack at the Scuderia, which is the beautiful restaurant in the renovated stable of the villa property. Read a bit more about Parco and Zoo Pallavicino in another post here, link to site there as well.

The Stresa/Mottarone Cablecar: All ages will love the Stresa-Mottarone cablecar, because it quickly rises above Lago Maggiore for the twenty-minute ride up to the top of Mt. Mottarone. Up top, there's room to run around, have a picnic, and enjoy breathtaking views of seven lakes and the Alps. The cablecar is open all year; we've previously spoken about it in winter, and in autumn. And don't forget the mid-point stop, at the Giardino Botanico Alpinia.

The Playground: This one's just for them. but why not make it into a nice pause for yourself also? The Stresa playground is located directly on the Lungolago, next to Ristorante Verbanella and across the street from the Regina Palace Hotel. It's free and open to all, and has plentiful benches in sun and shade, in view full view of the lake. So, while the kids are burning off some energy, why not purchase a panini for takeaway from Verbanella or elsewhere in town, a bottle of water for all, and catch up on some reading or postcard writing.

Some other thoughts for children are a visit to one of the beaches, Lido Beach or Loco Beach, ferry boat rides to the islands, a visit to the new Lago Maggiore Adventure Park, in Baveno, or a visit to La Rocca in Angera, the medieval Borromeo fortress with torture chambers and a doll museum, something for everyone.

I had such a nice surprise this week when I stumbled upon Stresa Sights recently added to the list of Italian-related blogs on the blog site Italy Tutto. Therefore this Gratitude Friday I'd like to give a big thanks to Italy Tutto. Italy Tutto is a wonderful site, they locate blogs about Italy and arrange them by region. Take a look, I think you'll find some nice reading there...

So THANKS! Italy Tutto, for helping me to spread the word about Stresa. A good Friday to all, and don't forget to check out more gratitude at Creative Structures.

One more little thing that I want to share tonight because I think these guys are even bigger fans of Stresa than I am!

I had to share this sweet story about Helga and Christoph Filke, from Germany, who have visited Stresa for thirty straight years beginning in 1979, staying always in the Hotel Primavera, always in the same room, #433. That first trip was during a bus tour from Rome, but each summer since they have returned on their own for two weeks. In the photo, the Filkes are in the center, with Canio Di Milia, the mayor of Stresa, on the left. On the right of the photo is Alberto Ferraris, owner of the Primavera Hotel. The Filkes proudly display the gifts the mayor has given to them -- a plaque, and the recently published book, Stresa, L'incanto. As proof that the Filkes were enchanted with Stresa right from the start Christoph Filke showed the reservation letter he received in 1979, and that he has saved all these years, for a double room at the Hotel Primavera, for which at that time he paid 10,000 lire.

How many times will YOU visit Stresa?

The Concerto d'Apertura, the opening performance of the 2009 Festival, Incontri e Dialoghi, Meetings and Dialogues, was a grand success, and will always have the distinction of being the first-ever sold-out concert at the Palazzo dei Congressi. And so, organizers eagerly await the 14 performances scheduled between now and September 5. Friday's concert at the Palazzo featured Janine Jansen on violino, the Radio Symphony Orchestra of Frankfurt, with Paavo Jarvi directing. I'm thrilled at the growing awareness and appreciation of these preformances. If you will be in Stresa during one of them, and you are even the tiniest bit a fan of classical music, please don't miss these truly unique opportunites to hear some of the world's most celebrated musicians playing in some of the lake's most beautiful venues. Here is a link to the full schedule of 2009 Stresa Festival performances.

I've been following the news about this project for some time, and I'm happy to hear that it has finally come to fruition. For the first time, tourists are able to travel, by boat alone, from Ascona, Switzerland, to Venice. A group of 16 Swiss tourists booked the inaugural cruise, which travels through Lago Maggiore, the Ticino River, the Po River, and finally, the Adriatic Sea before arriving in Venice. This aquatic trek covers 670 kilometers, and stops in eight points of interest, the first being Isola Bella for a tour of the Palazzo Borromeo, and the last being a ride right into the Grand Canal in Venice. Four trips are planned for 2010, always with a focus on culture and food. For those of you who have already done it all, or have fond memories of cruises on French canals, this is one to add to your list.

We decided to have an American bbq. The kind you see on American TV shows let's say. We were doing this in a town called Druogno, in the Valle Vigezzo in the Italian Alps, where we were spending the weekend. We were a pretty international bunch, with me being the American, some Italians, and some South Africans. The weather on this July weekend was much cooler than in Stresa, the air was fresh, and the sky was crystal clear. Perfect barbeque weather.

Here's how it went: Colleague and I found some supplies at Ipercoop, the large supermarket in the area.

We found hamburger patties at the local butcher shop. Not sure how often he makes them...


We found nacho chips and salsa, we even found a watermelon, but we couldn't find corn on the cob.

We made a cheesecake.

I know, I know, it should have been an apple pie, but a cheesecake called New York style seemed very American as well.

So how'd we do? Was it a truly American bbq? Well, we had our nachos, sprinkled with grated parmasan and served with focaccia and spinach tart...


We had our burgers and ribs, but we also had spicy salsiccia, which, it turns out, do not work well with hot dog buns.


While we did have some beer, we also had wine, prosecco, and grappa. The cheesecake was a big success, but we forgot about the watermelon, which we had put into the freezer for some reason.

Before long, the table looked like this...


Not very American looking at all, si? Oh well... I tried. And we had fun. Next time, I'm thinking to show them how to make s'mores... if I can find marshmallows that is...

It's Gratitude Friday, and this Friday I'm grateful for the optimism that I feel inside of myself in these days... In the midst of many changes, some of which I have no control over, and some of which I do, I'm optimistic, sempre sempre.

A: There is indeed a supermarket in Stresa; a small branch of the Carrefour chain. While it is not huge, it has a good selection of fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, and breads, all you need for some inexpensive meals and snacks. If you don't have access to a kitchen you can ask for prosciutto, buy yourself a loaf of bread (remember when we had our bread day? One of those rolls would work nicely) and have easy sandwiches for a picnic along the lake. Estimate about 100 grams of meat per sandwich when you order. If you do have a kitchen, there is a nice selection of fresh pasta in the back of the store, or packaged tortellini in flavors much more special than our American 'emergency' food. There's also a nice selection of wine...

The store is right in the center of town, but you'll never see it unless you know what to look for. The market has entrances on both Via P. Tomaso and Via Roma, and is just one street further into town than Piazza Cadorna. If you are walking away from the lake on Via P. Tomaso, the entrance is on your right. On both streets the entrances are recessed, and there is no visible signage outside. Here is the entrance to Carrefour on Via P. Tomaso:

One morning, instead of my usual jog along the lake, I decided to combine my exercise with bit of sightseeing. And so instead of turning left at the Stresa Imbarcadero, I turned right, and jogged about for about five minutes the short distance to the Parco and Zoo Pallavicino. I was able to do a good invigorating walk on the hilly paths of the 20 hectares of the park and zoo, and then, after cooling down with a water bottle bought at the Chalet Bar, I walked through again, more leisurely this time.

The Parco and Zoo Pallavicino is an interesting combination of zoo, historic villa, and beautiful Italian garden. From my perspective, visiting in July when all is in full bloom, I'd say it seemed more garden than zoo. But little travelers may see it differently, and that the cages and enclosures are hidden behind plants until one is directly upon them might give children a bit of a surprise-around-every-corner feel. Actually, it did for me as well. To walk through a rose garden, and then around a water pond, only to come nose-to-nose with a zebra in his cage, was quite novel. Make sure you notice both the famous cypress arches, and the over 40 species of mammals and exotic birds.




The interior of the villa, built in the 1800s, is not open to visitors, but its grounds are used as a venue for some of the Stresa Festival events. It, and all the parkland, is still owned by the Pallavicino family. They made the park available to the public in the 1950s, and it's become one of the major sights in Stresa, whether you're looking for gardens, things to do with children, or tutte le due, both.

Thanks to Diana, at Creative Structures, many bloggers have been pausing on Fridays to reflect on the things that we are grateful for. This week, I join them, and I choose shooting stars... meteors... to be grateful for. I choose this because all this week, centered around the night of San Lorenzo on August 10, Stresa has been, as always, in the fortunate position to be able to clearly observe the annual meteor shower. Beginning on July 20th falling stars have been visible in the night skies, growing in frequency, until the maximum, an average of 60 visible falling stars an hour, on August 12. And now nightly, they will still be seen, although diminishing in number, for some days to come. Inhabitants and visitors in Stresa should be grateful to be there, where the relative darkness of the sky over the lake, or the absolute darkness higher in the mountains, offer perfect viewing spots. Atop Mt. Mottorone, for the third year now, spectators have been allowed to gather all night, and while there was an astronomer on hand to answer questions, and a telescope to peer through, most on the summit were there only to quietly gaze north-east, maybe making wishes on stars as they fell.

I love falling stars, natures own fireworks... They remind us, lest we forget, of how wondrous and magical the world around us is, and of the beauty of things fleeting and rare.

On August 1 I was one of the lucky people hearing the Bach solo suites for violincello at Santa Caterina. I've recently guest-posted about the evening on the Stresa Festival blog, and I'd like to share that post here as well. Please take a look at the festival blog for much more information about upcoming concerts and videos of recent performances. There is also a contest, in which you can win tickets, so please go and have a look! http://www.stresafestival.eu/blog/

Sunset as we left the Stresa imbarcadero.
Our approach to Santa Caterina.

The 88 stairs we climbed up from the boat.

Under the frescoes, waiting for the concert to begin.

From sunny start, to spectacular fireworks finish, this was a magical evening in every sense of the word. All of the Stresa Festival musical events are held in very special venues that, each in their own way, evoke this wondrous feeling. If you haven’t yet had the pleasure of attending one of these events, I urge you to do so, as soon as you can.

People all over Stresa are drinking a coffee drink this summer that takes care of their craving for caffeine but also cools them down. It's called the Shakerato. I've seen it being served in Piazza Cadorna, at the Lido Beach Club in Baveno, and at outdoor seating in coffee bars all around town.

The Shakerato begins with a double shot of espresso (a long espresso). This is poured into a martini shaker. Some ice is added. About two tablespoons of the clear simple syrup is added. And that's it. Put the top on tightly. And then shake. And shake.

The cold Shakerato is then poured, without the ice, into a tall fluted glass in which there is already a small amount of a sweet liquor, usually amaretto. Shaking the coffee and simple syrup mixture has transformed the dark espresso into a lighter, cappuccino color, and the coffee rests above the amaretto layer. Add sugar to taste, if you like.

Maybe this is not for your first cappuccino of the day, but this is perfect for that 11 a.m. one, when the day's starting to heat up, or later in the afternoon, as I saw many do after the pool or the beach.

My friend Giovanni Luca is an American who's been learning the Italian language for some time. Because of his passion for the language, and his wanting to share this passion with others, he publishes each month a small newsletter of stories and articles written in Italian by students of the language. His newsletter is where I first found the courage to put something I had written for my Italian class out there for others to see. The older stories that I post on my Italian story blog -- www.ritrattiitaliani.blogspot.com -- were first written for this newsletter.


Anyone's welcome to submit anything they want to him (he'll keep that final authority though about what he publishes of course). Once monthly, or sometimes bi-monthly, he sends out his newsletter by e-mail. To receive Il Bollettino, Giovanni's newsletter, just send him a little mail saying you'd like to be added to the list. And then, if you are learning Italian, think about submitting something, it doesn't matter if it's long or short, it only matters that you have the opportunity to practice writing this bella lingua. Give it a try, ok? Perche no?

Dove eravamo rimasti? Where were we? I've been on vacation here in Stresa, but now it's time to get back to work reporting on all the happenings and supplying you with the information you need to make the most of your time spent in the "Pearl of Lago Maggiore."

Let's jump right in to a major event that began in mid-July and will continue until August 30th. You need to look up for this one, the 11th Annual Campionato Mondiale di Fuochi d'Artificio, the 11th Annual World Fireworks Championship. At six different locations, all easily reached from Stresa, all of them stunning visually even without fireworks, six different international fireworks companies will each put on their very best show.

The first event of this season, a show put on by Parente Fireworks of Italy, on July 25, was maybe the most interesting. For the first time ever, a fireworks display was staged at la Cascata del Toce, the waterfall of the Toce River, in Formazza. Imagine ten thousand noses, all pointed up, watching the light show in the sky which was reflected also in the waters of the falls. Now imagine that most of those people walked for 40 minutes to arrive at this remote spot, on a dirt trail lit only with their own flashlights, and you know that this must have been very special indeed...

Last weekend, Mergozzo hosted the second evening of fireworks, with a show presented by Forward Fireworks Company of China. I saw a bit of this display myself, from one entire lake away. As I was traveling in a boat on Lago Maggiore that evening, I was able to see in the clear sky, far away, the bursts of fireworks over tiny Lago Mergozzo. Imagine how it was there...