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Monday, August 31, 2009

Piazza Cadorna

Piazza Cadorna is lined with cafes. This one is Cafe Nazionale.

In almost every Italian town there is a piazza, the open public square which is the center of the town's public life. A piazza can be large, such as the Piazza del Campo in Siena, or just a small intersection where no traffic is allowed, such as Piazza Wagner in Milano. It can be a traditional square with the town church at the center, or some other shape, as is the oval Piazza dell'Anfiteatro in Lucca.

This view shows the entrance to Piazza Cadorna from Via P. Tomaso. L'Angelo del Gelato is the building you can see the edge of on the right.

Stresa has at its center Piazza Cadorna. Only 100 meters inland from the Stresa imbarcadero, and pretty much truly geographically in the center of town, Piazza Cadorna is the spot where everyone gathers to meet, to watch, to eat, to listen, or to fare niente, to do nothing at all. It's difficult to believe that only a few years ago this bustling piazza wasn't what you see today. In winter months the open space was used as a parking lot. In summer, the cars were prohibited and restaurants allowed to use the space. But it's only within the past five years or so that the area has been closed permanently to traffic and used exclusively as a piazza. To me, it is a sign of the growing renaissance of Stresa, and of the understanding of the great value and meaning that a piazza gives to a small town such as this. It also allowed the piazza to develop its own style, with planters and flowers, and it has encouraged the restaurants and shops to invest in better tables, chairs, and lights that give it the special ambiance that it now has.

The piazza is lined with a nice selection of better shops, including those for books, eyewear, cosmetics, shoes, jewelry, stationery, and leather. A few small hotels, such as Hotel Elena, open onto the piazza. There are at least three gelato shops. The center of the piazza has been filled with the chairs and tables of various restaurants in a tight square pattern. Overhead, the umbrellas are large, and touching each other, creating an outdoor roof. Little lights and greenery complete the setting. Around the periphery all the restaurants have done the same, with tables extending out into the piazza. Waiters rush back and forth from kitchens out into the square, trays balanced on one hand.

Summer evenings...

I spent a lot of time in Piazza Cadorna this summer. I met friends for cappuccinos and shakeratos at Cafe Nazionale. I enjoyed several gelati at L'Angelo del Gelato. One evening, a jazz band played on a make-shift stage on the western side of the square; many of the restaurant chairs had been put into use to create curved seating for the audience. While the band played, a painter worked on a thirty-foot long mural close by, painting as inspired by the music. Another lovely evening, late, I shared pizzas with Colleague at Cafe Torino. Although almost midnight, the restaurant, in fact all the piazza, was still crowded. Joe Diverio played the piano at Cafe Torino that night, popular sing-a-long songs in Italian, German, French, and English. Touristy? Yes it was... Fun? You bet.

Stresa has a few smaller piazze as well. There is the newly finished Piazza Possi, close to Cadorna, which has already been used as a venue for musicians and performers. Piazza Capucci is still a parking lot most of the week, but on Fridays it becomes the Stresa market. And Piazza Matteotti, across from the imbarcadero, is open to the lake on one side and adjacent to the Chiesa San Ambrogio on another. You can also hear music here many evenings during the summer months.

In the above map Piazza Cadorna is directly in the center.


Friday, August 28, 2009

Thanks Italy Tutto!


I had such a nice surprise this week when I stumbled upon Stresa Sights recently added to the list of Italian-related blogs on the blog site Italy Tutto. Therefore this Gratitude Friday I'd like to give a big thanks to Italy Tutto. Italy Tutto is a wonderful site, they locate blogs about Italy and arrange them by region. Take a look, I think you'll find some nice reading there...

So THANKS! Italy Tutto, for helping me to spread the word about Stresa. A good Friday to all, and don't forget to check out more gratitude at Creative Structures.

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Thirty Straight Years Visiting Stresa!


What a sweet story about Helga and Christoph Filke, from Germany, who have visited Stresa for thirty straight years beginning in 1979, staying always in the Hotel Primavera, always in the same room, #433. That first trip was during a bus tour from Rome, but each summer since they have returned on their own for two weeks. In the photo, the Filkes are in the center, with Canio Di Milia, the mayor of Stresa, on the left. On the right of the photo is Alberto Ferraris, owner of the Primavera Hotel. The Filkes proudly display the gifts the mayor has given to them -- a plaque, and the recently published book, Stresa, L'incanto. As proof that the Filkes were enchanted with Stresa right from the start Christoph Filke showed the reservation letter he received in 1979, and that he has saved all these years, for a double room at the Hotel Primavera, for which at that time he paid 10,000 lire.

How many times will YOU visit Stresa?

This information was taken from a story written by Sindaco Di Milia for his blog, Stresa, il mio blog.



Saturday, August 22, 2009

Ascona To Venice In One Boat

[Locarno+Ascona+Venezia.jpg]

I've been following the news about this project for some time, and I'm happy to hear that it has finally come to fruition. For the first time, tourists are able to travel, by boat alone, from Ascona, Switzerland, to Venice. A group of 16 Swiss tourists booked the inaugural cruise, which travels through Lago Maggiore, the Ticino River, the Po River, and finally, the Adriatic Sea before arriving in Venice. This aquatic trek covers 670 kilometers, and stops in eight points of interest, the first being Isola Bella for a tour of the Palazzo Borromeo, and the last being a ride right into the Grand Canal in Venice. Four trips are planned for 2010, always with a focus on culture and food. For those of you who have already done it all, or have fond memories of cruises on French canals, this is one to add to your list.


An American Barbeque In Italy

We decided to have an American bbq. The kind you see on American TV shows let's say. We were doing this in a town called Druogno, in the Valle Vigezzo in the Italian Alps, where we were spending the weekend. We were a pretty international bunch, with me being the American, some Italians, and some South Africans. The weather on this July weekend was much cooler than in Stresa, the air was fresh, and the sky was crystal clear. Perfect barbeque weather.

Here's how it went: We found some supplies at Ipercoop, the large supermarket in the area.

There was a section of American foods in the Ethnic Foods aisle. We found hamburger and hot dog buns with a cool American flag motif. We never did find hot dogs though...


We found hamburger patties at the local butcher shop. Not sure how often he makes them...


We found nacho chips and salsa, we even found a watermelon, but we couldn't find corn on the cob.

We made a cheesecake.

I know, I know, it should have been an apple pie, but a cheesecake called New York style seemed very American as well.

So how'd we do? Was it a truly American bbq? Well, we had our nachos, sprinkled with grated parmasan and served with focaccia and spinach tart...


We had our burgers and ribs, but we also had spicy salsiccia, which, it turns out, do not work well with hot dog buns.


While we did have some beer, we also had wine, prosecco, and grappa. The cheesecake was a big success, but we forgot about the watermelon, which we had put into the freezer for some reason.

It didn't take long at all for the table to look like this...


Oh well... I tried. And we had fun. Next time, I'm thinking to show them how to make s'mores... if I can find marshmallows that is...

Friday, August 21, 2009

Lago Mergozzo

A glimpse inside an open window reveals a fragment of a fresco on a ceiling...

A white chair on a balcony from which someone watches the water...

That's what we do here... Find a seat, face the water... Relax...

Even the little boats seem at rest...

And as the sun sets the water becomes as still and as smooth as glass.

These are a few photos I took at Mergozzo in July, 2009. I'm particularly fond of this tiny speck of a lake. There's something about it that says slow down, sit, don't do anything, don't disturb the calmness of the water, be tranquil... And after only a few minutes there, I am...

I wrote about Lago Mergozzo in an earlier post, here.



Thursday, August 20, 2009

Santa Caterina del Sasso


Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Supermarkets, Food Shops, Fast Food In Stresa



UPDATED 2018

A reader recently asked a very practical question:

Q: We don't want to eat in restaurants every meal. Is there a supermarket in Stresa?

A: There is indeed a supermarket in Stresa; a small branch of the Carrefour chain, and there are several other smaller market choices as well (continue to bottom of post for list). While it is not huge, it has a really good selection of fresh fruits, vegetables, meats, and breads. If you don't have access to a kitchen you can ask for prosciutto, buy yourself a loaf of bread and some cheese, and have easy sandwiches for a picnic along the lake. Estimate about 100 grams of meat per sandwich when you order. If you do have a kitchen, there's everything you'll need, including some fresh pasta in the back of the store, jars of ragu, or packaged tortellini in flavors much more special than our American 'emergency' food. There's also a nice selection of wine...

The store is right in the center of town, but you'll never see it unless you know what to look for. The market has entrances on both Via P. Tomaso and Via Roma, and is just one street further into town than Piazza Cadorna. If you are walking away from the lake on Via P. Tomaso, the entrance is on your right. On both streets the entrances are recessed, and the signage outside is a small Carrefour sign extending from the building.  Here is the entrance to Carrefour on Via P. Tomaso:

As you can see, you really can't see the entrance to the Carrefour market unless you look for it.

Although hidden outside, inside the store is surprisingly large enough and well enough stocked.

For example, there is packaged tortellini in flavors I'm almost certain you are not used to. These packages are of tortellini al tartufo bianco, and agnolotti al brasato.


There are two checkouts at the front of the store. You'll be asked if you want a sachetto, a bag, for your groceries. There is a few euro cents charge for the standard plastic bag. Or, you can do what I did and buy the reusable burlap shopping bag. It makes a nice souvenir, it's strong, and, not bad either that it will remind you of Stresa every time you use it.

Stresa has some other smaller markets as well, which may be convenient depending on your location or if you are looking for something different:

Alimentari di Gloria is located in the center of the Carciano neighborhood part of Stresa, just next to the church. It's also called a Carrefour Express, part of the family of small, privately owned Carrefour markets. It is a very small market; but you'll be surprised to see just how much is packed into that small space. Toward the back is a meat and cheese counter, which also sells prepared foods that change on a daily basis. They are very accommodating in this shop; should you need large orders for catering they can do that. Their Facebook page shows the types of foods they are preparing and more information.

https://www.facebook.com/aesseg.carciano

Carrefour Express; Piazza San Carlo, 1 28834 Stresa

The exterior of the Carrefour Express, Alimentari di Gloria, in Carciano
More information about this market can be found here:

https://www.google.it/search?rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS681US682&ei=AC5bWuDrCMjsUo2vqYgO&q=carrefour%20carciano%20di%20stresa%20indirizzo&oq=carrefour+carciano+di+stresa+indirizzio&gs_l=psy-ab.3...59174.61240.0.62153.9.9.0.0.0.0.134.1111.0j9.9.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.TiZ7wQtkkos&npsic=0&rflfq=1&rlha=0&rllag=45884807,8530723,661&tbm=lcl&rldimm=18199318867248547124&ved=0ahUKEwiombjznNfYAhVEOBQKHQWmBYEQvS4IRzAB&rldoc=1&tbs=lrf:!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:4



Gastronomia I Salti in Bocca is located in the center of Stresa on Via A.M.Bolongaro, very near to the post office. This small walk-in shop sells prepared items that are cooked fresh daily. So, it's like having your own private Italian cook prepare you traditional foods in traditional ways. The menu changes daily, specials are posted on the door and windows, and you can prepare in advance by taking a look at their Facebook page: 

https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=gastronomia%20i%20salti%20in%20bocca

Food from here is a really nice alternative to making yourself meals in your apartment. Just pick up a bottle of wine and you're good to go!

Le Fantasie della Pasta
This pasta shop is located on Via P. Tomaso, 85. They prepare fresh pasta and ravioli daily, in a variety of shapes and sizes. Pasta lovers, this should be your first stop. More information about them is here:
https://www.google.it/search?rlz=1C1JZAP_enUS681US682&tbm=lcl&ei=Zy5bWpeYG8jxUr7brOgJ&q=fantasie+delle+pasta+stresa&oq=fantasie+delle+pasta+stresa&gs_l=psy-ab.3..0i22i30k1.798612.805377.0.805555.27.25.0.2.2.0.284.3198.0j23j1.24.0....0...1c.1.64.psy-ab..1.26.3212...0j0i67k1j0i10k1j0i19k1j0i22i30i19k1j0i13k1j0i13i30k1j0i22i10i30k1j33i22i29i30k1j0i13i5i30k1j0i8i13i30k1.0.UT5jpEwo_Yg#rlfi=hd:;si:7547033612303422150;mv:!1m3!1d336.33241118108504!2d8.5386569!3d45.8822157!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i743!2i372!4f13.1

The exterior of Le Fantasie della Pasta, on Via P. Tomaso, 85

Fast Food 
Now, in addition to these markets, you can also pick up fast food from several places, and there is overlap, as the supermarkets in Stresa are beginning to offer more "fast-food" takeaway options. 
Start with these choices, in this post: 
https://stresasights.blogspot.it/2013/09/food-five-fast-food-options.html#more





Friday, August 14, 2009

Parco And Zoo Pallavicino

Hai una carota per me? Do you have a carrot for me?

One morning, instead of my usual jog along the lake, I decided to combine my exercise with bit of sightseeing. And so instead of turning left at the Stresa Imbarcadero, I turned right, and jogged about five minutes the short distance to the Parco and Zoo Pallavicino. I was able to do a good invigorating walk on the hilly paths of the 20 hectares of the park and zoo, and then, after cooling down with a water bottle bought at the Chalet Bar, I walked through again, more leisurely this time.

The Parco and Zoo Pallavicino is an interesting combination of zoo, historic villa, and beautiful Italian garden. From my perspective, visiting in July when all is in full bloom, I'd say it seemed more garden than zoo. But little travelers may see it differently, and that the cages and enclosures are hidden behind plants until one is directly upon them might give children a bit of a surprise-around-every-corner feel. Actually, it did for me as well. To walk through a rose garden, and then around a water pond, only to come nose-to-nose with a zebra in his cage, was quite novel. Make sure you notice both the famous cypress arches, and the over 40 species of mammals and exotic birds.

The rose garden.

Famous cypress arches line the entrance road, framing Lago Maggiore. Beautiful, even on an overcast morning.

A water garden.

The interior of the villa, built in the 1800s, is not open to visitors, but its grounds are used as a venue for some of the Stresa Festival events. It, and all the parkland, is still owned by the Pallavicino family. They made the park available to the public in the 1950s, and it's become one of the popular sights in Stresa, whether you're looking for gardens, things to do with children, or tutte le due, both.

Villa Pallavicino, as seen from the top of the zoo. Summer concerts are held in the courtyard.

The park is usually open from mid-March until late October. Maps are provided at the ticket booth. If you don't want to walk from Stresa, the zoo offers the trenino shuttle back and forth from the Stresa Imbarcadero; this is definitely part of the experience for little ones, as well as a convenience for all. Information about the trenino is on their website. And take note, the paths in the park go up and down fairly steep hills, and are for the most part only covered with gravel. Wear your comfy shoes.

If you are walking from Stresa to the park you will pass Lov Beach, a small beach, bar, and mini golf location. Also a nice stop for little ones.

Parco and Zoo Pallavicino are on the list of the Top Ten Things to do in Stresa. Take a look at the whole list here.


Web site for prices and current information: http://www.parcopallavicino.it/

Catch A Falling Star On The Night Of San Lorenzo

Thanks to Diana, at Creative Structures, many bloggers have been pausing on Fridays to reflect on the things that we are grateful for. This week, I join them, and I choose shooting stars... meteors... to be grateful for. I choose this because all this week, centered around the night of San Lorenzo on August 10, Stresa has been, as always, in the fortunate position to be able to clearly observe the annual meteor shower. Beginning on July 20th falling stars have been visible in the night skies, growing in frequency, until the maximum, an average of 60 visible falling stars an hour, on August 12. And now nightly, they will still be seen, although diminishing in number, for some days to come. Inhabitants and visitors in Stresa should be grateful to be there, where the relative darkness of the sky over the lake, or the absolute darkness higher in the mountains, offer perfect viewing spots. Atop Mt. Mottorone, for the third year now, spectators have been allowed to gather all night, and while there was an astronomer on hand to answer questions, and a telescope to peer through, most on the summit were there only to quietly gaze north-east, maybe making wishes on stars as they fell.

I love falling stars, natures own fireworks... They remind us, lest we forget, of how wondrous and magical the world around us is, and of the beauty of things fleeting and rare.

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Una Bella Serata Of Bach At Santa Caterina


On August 1, 2009 I was one of the lucky people hearing the Bach solo suites for violincello at Santa Caterina. I've recently guest posted about the evening on the Stresa Festival blog, and I'd like to share that post here as well. Please take a look at the festival website for information on upcoming performances and tickets:  http://www.stresafestival.eu/?lang=en

Sunset as we left the Stresa imbarcadero.

(   continued ...   )

Saturday, August 8, 2009

The Shakerato


People all over Stresa are drinking a coffee drink this summer that takes care of their craving for caffeine but also cools them down. It's called the Shakerato. I've seen it being served in Piazza Cadorna, at the Lido Beach Club in Baveno, and at outdoor seating in coffee bars all around town.

The Shakerato begins with a double shot of espresso (a long espresso). This is poured into a martini shaker. Some ice is added. About two tablespoons of the clear simple syrup is added. And that's it. Put the top on tightly. And then shake. And shake.

The cold Shakerato is then poured, without the ice, into a tall fluted glass in which there is already a small amount of a sweet liquor, usually amaretto. Shaking the coffee and simple syrup mixture has transformed the dark espresso into a lighter, cappuccino color, and the coffee rests above the amaretto layer. Add sugar to taste, if you like.

Maybe this is not for your first cappuccino of the day, but this is perfect for that 11 a.m. one, when the day's starting to heat up, or later in the afternoon, as I saw many do after the pool or the beach.

Practice Your Italian Writing


My friend Giovanni Luca is an American who's been learning the Italian language for some time. Because of his passion for the language, and his wanting to share this passion with others, he publishes each month a small newsletter of stories and articles written in Italian by students of the language. His newsletter is where I first found the courage to put something I had written for my Italian class out there for others to see. The older stories that I post on my Italian story blog -- www.ritrattiitaliani.blogspot.com -- were first written for this newsletter.


Anyone's welcome to submit anything they want to him (he'll keep that final authority though about what he publishes of course). Once monthly, or sometimes bi-monthly, he sends out his newsletter by e-mail. To receive Il Bollettino, Giovanni's newsletter, just send him a little mail saying you'd like to be added to the list. And then, if you are learning Italian, think about submitting something, it doesn't matter if it's long or short, it only matters that you have the opportunity to practice writing this bella lingua. Give it a try, ok? Perche no?

Here's the e-mail to send requests or stories to: senzastivale@aol.com

Friday, August 7, 2009

Annual Fireworks Championship Competitions - Fiori di Fuoco


Dove eravamo rimasti? Where were we? I've been on vacation here in Stresa, but now it's time to get back to work reporting on all the happenings and supplying you with the information you need to make the most of your time spent in the "Pearl of Lago Maggiore."

Let's jump right in to a major event that began in mid-July and will continue until August 30th. You need to look up for this one, the 11th Annual Campionato Mondiale di Fuochi d'Artificio, the 11th Annual World Fireworks Championship. At six different locations, all easily reached from Stresa, all of them stunning visually even without fireworks, six different international fireworks companies will each put on their very best show.

The first event of this season, a show put on by Parente Fireworks of Italy, on July 25, was maybe the most interesting. For the first time ever, a fireworks display was staged at la Cascata del Toce, the waterfall of the Toce River, in Formazza. Imagine ten thousand noses, all pointed up, watching the light show in the sky which was reflected also in the waters of the falls. Now imagine that most of those people walked for 40 minutes to arrive at this remote spot, on a dirt trail lit only with their own flashlights, and you know that this must have been very special indeed...

At the bottom of the Cascata del Toce 10,000 viewed the spectacular fireworks show above the falls.
Last weekend, Mergozzo hosted the second evening of fireworks, with a show presented by Forward Fireworks Company of China. I saw a bit of this display myself, from one entire lake away. As I was traveling in a boat on Lago Maggiore that evening, I was able to see in the clear sky, far away, the bursts of fireworks over tiny Lago Mergozzo. Imagine how it was there...


Although this post speaks of the event in 2009, check the website for details on current schedules and locations. The annual event does change locations and dates from time to time.




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