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Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Cooking Lesson At Ristorante Marconi -- Sugo

Denis Croce, of Ristorante Marconi, speaks to us in his kitchen.

There can be no better way to get to know a restaurant than to visit its kitchen. And the best way to learn cooking techniques is to watch a master chef in action. Denis Croce, owner and chef at Ristorante Marconi, in Crodo, knows this, and has opened his kitchen on certain evenings for very special cooking classes, each of which focuses on one part of the meal, such as desserts, the primo piatto, or the secondo piatto.

I already had enjoyed a very memorable eight-course, cheese-oriented dinner at Marconi, read about it here, and so I knew the food was excellent. I then had the pleasure of attending a cooking lesson with Denis in his kitchen. During the two hour lesson we watched as he prepared seven different secondo piatti, meat dishes.

The first thing Denis prepared for us was this classic sugo recipe. The sugo, gravy, would then be used on many of the other dishes he prepared.

I made a pot of this sugo tonight. Very simple. Sedano, cipolla, e carota, celery, onion, and carrot, were chopped and put into a large pot with a meat bone, fresh rosemary, and about half a bottle of red wine. When the wine has reduced by about half, add a good amount of water to the pot, cover it, and let it simmer for an hour or so, until the liquid is again reduced by about half.
Let the sugo cool a bit, and then strain it. And here's the helpful tip Denis taught us. At this point he pours the sugo into an ice cube tray and freezes it in individual portion sizes.

I used a muffin pan instead of an ice cube tray to freeze my portions in.

When he needs some for a dish, he uses a portion of the frozen, reheats it in a saucepan, and adds a slice of butter to thicken it.
This is the amount of gravy each muffin holder held.

Back in the Marconi kitchen, Denis let that pot simmer all through our lesson. The smell was wonderful, whet our appetites for sure, as he knew it would. For the dishes he prepared that evening he used previously frozen cubes. Fascinating evening, fantastic food. This is just my opinion, but what I took away from this lesson was that the essence of classic Italian cooking may be focused on the precision of the techniques, and the quality of the ingredients, rather than a new interpretation of a dish.

Now, I have my supply of sugo ready in my freezer. The question is... what should I make next to pour it over? Should it be Marconi's Bocconcini di Faraona Porchettati? Or their Filetto di Maialino con Mele Caramellate al Calvados?


Monday, March 30, 2009

Inbox

A reader writes in to ask:

Q: My sister and I are considering traveling to Stresa from May 23, 2009 through May 30, 2009 from New Orleans, Louisiana, in the U.S. What season is it in Stresa in May? Can we expect cool or warm temperatures?

A: As you can see from the chart below, the average temperatures in Milan during May are in the 70s, Farenheit, beautiful spring weather. But as you can also see, May is the month which receives the most rain. May 2008, was an unusually rainy May, with rain almost every day. Therefore, if you're planning to be in Stresa in May, hope for lovely warm temperatures, not too hot or too cold, with nice lake breezes, but be prepared also for some rain.


I have not yet been to Stresa during the month of May, but I hear plenty of firsthand information from friends who live there, and from the weather charts. I'd love to hear from any readers who have been here in May or from others who live here... How's the May weather? Leave a quick comment and let us know...




Saturday, March 28, 2009

Eight Cheeses, Three Wines... At Ristorante Marconi


Eight dishes, eight cheeses, three wines, one espresso... this is what I ate for dinner last night...


Stuzzichino di Robiola di Roccaverano con cialdina alle nocciale. Two thumbs up.

Pomodorini ciliegia marinati al pesto di basilico con Burratina e crudo della Valle Vigezzo croccante. Two thumbs up.

Cannolo di pasta brick con Ricotta Vaccina al fumo di ginepro e pomodoro confit su mosaico di verdure e salmone affumicato.
Two BIG thumbs up. We loved these.

Tortelloni di pasta di semola con patate Ratte e Raschera su crema leggera di porri e Topinambur.Two thumbs up -- with some reservations.
Risotto Carnaroli “Acquerello” , tenuta Colombara mantecato al Blu del Monviso.Two thumbs up.
___________________________

Okay. This is embarrassing. There should be a photo of Bocconcini di faraona alle erbe porchettati su crema di Pecorino di Pienza semistagionato here. But, um, we devoured them immediately when they arrived, forgetting to take a photo.
Obviously, two BIG thumbs up.

____________________________

Biancomangiare al Castelmagno con miele di castagno e pere.Two thumbs down. The flavor simply didn't work on this layered dish of pears and cheese.

Millefoglie di cioccolato con mousse all’arancia e Quartirolo.Mixed review. One thumb up, one thumb half up.


And that was the Serata a Degustazione, “ I formaggi Italiani ,” at Ristorante Marconi, Via Pellanda n° 21, Crodo. We also attended a cooking lesson at this wonderful restaurant; more on that some other time.

www.ristorantemarconi.com


Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Ciao Amore...


My Italian teacher has always told us that one day, just as if someone flips a switch, all of a sudden we'll just be able to 'get it'. He's speaking about Italian of course... And he means that the more we practice, and listen, and try, someday it will all click and come together. One goal I have each time I come to Italy is to measure how much improvement I can see in my comprehension of Italian and my ability to speak. This time, this is the first time I can go back and tell my teacher, it clicked! In markets, in restaurants, with friends and strangers, this is the first time I've had no trouble at all communicating, or understanding what I hear. Several times people have stopped me to ask for directions. And I knew the correct answers. And I was able to respond.

I'm a little excited about this. So please forgive me if I've been eavesdropping a bit on strangers now and then. Like these three adorable ladies who were sitting at the next table to me at La Fontana in Verbania.

They were chatting away, enjoying their cappuccinos, when the cell phone of the woman closest to me rang.

"Ciao, Amore...", she answers, in a sing-song voice. "Ciao, Amore...," her friends, in unison, mimic her, giggling. Then she says, "No, Amore, you clean the house today. I don't want to clean the house today, I'm at the bar with my friends!" This sends the other two into fits of laughter. They could be 10-year-old schoolgirls; I bet they had been 10-year-old schoolgirls together, once. Finally, the housecleaning plans are organized. The unlucky husband at home is given much to do. Which rooms need what works, what needs to be cooked. The friends interrupt often with suggestions. Finally, the woman ends the conversation as she began, sing-songing, "Ciao, ciao Amore, a dopo...", and her friends again chime in, so that he can hear them, "Ciaooooo Amoreeee... a dopooooo."

All that transpired in Italian, naturally. How cute they were, and how cool for me, that I got it, it clicked! I'm sorry signore, for having been rude. I apologize for the eavesdropping, but I'll always remember your conversation.

The above photo is the only one I surreptitiously snapped of the ladies at lunch. I wish I could have videotaped them.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Isola dei Pescatori

The only one of the three Borromean islands that is not still owned by the royal Borromeo family, Isola dei Pescatori is charming and fascinating. And small. Very small. Piccolissima small. The island measures 350 meters by 100 meters. Now a part of the city of Stresa, Pescatore is also called Isola Superiore; make a mental note that you may see it listed in this way at the boat stations. It has been inhabited for about 1000 years, as has Stresa. Nowadays there are about 50 permanent residents, and while fishing is still a great occupation on the lake, the main business these days is catering to the tourists who visit each day.

Could you spend a whole day on this little speck of an island? While most don't, while most tourists jump on and off the ferries like local stops and also visit the other Borromean islands, Isola Bella and Isola Madre, in one day, if you enjoy the slow approach, like I do, and have the time, like I did, si, yes, I think it's possible to enjoy several hours here.

The 10 minute boat trip from Stresa costs 6 euro for a round trip ticket. Arrive late morning. There are many restaurants, cafes, and bars on the island. I lost count at about 20. Start with a cappuccino or a juice. The temperature on the island may well be warmer than back in Stresa proper, as Stresa sits in the shade of Mt. Mottarone for part of the day, while tiny Pescatori bakes in the strong sun reflected by the surrounding water. Enjoy the warming day, relax.

Isola Madre, as seen from Isola Pescatore.

Take your time and stroll all around the island. Of course you can cover every street, notice tiny details. Of course there are no cars, and therefore the streets are more like narrow alleys, and quiet. Notice how the main entrances of the houses are on inside streets, and higher than the perimeter. This is to protect them from the floods which frequently occur. A gravel path travels around the outside of the island. There are benches placed here and there. Stroll slowly and take in the 360 degree view. Sit in the sun and relax some more. Feed some ducks.

These guys followed me through the narrow street until a cat scared them away.

Choose a restaurant. Many of course specialize in fish, but you'll find the usual assortment of pizza, panini, and pasta as well. Casabella, located just to the right of the boat station, is a Michelin 2009 selection.

This is Ristorante Unione, located just to the left of the boat station. It is quite popular, as it hangs out over the water for a fantastic view, and the glass walls protect from wind and spray.

In the afternoon visit the Church of San Vittore, which you'll find high in the center of the town. It dates back to the 11th century. There are traces here of an even more ancient chapel that may date from the 9th century, when it was most likely built for an order of Scozzola monks. Browse through the souvenir and craft shops. Maybe have another espresso before catching an afternoon ferry back to the relative activity in Stresa. Be careful to check the departure times of the last ferry. If you miss it, you'll need to take a water taxi, which will cost a bit more.

Or maybe enjoy a glass of "fresh squished" orange juice before you leave...

There are two hotels on Isola dei Pescatori, Hotel Belvedere, and Hotel Verbano. Many restaurants remain open into the evening for dinner during the summer months; should you chose to dine in one of them you'll need to arrange for a water taxi for your return; many of the restaurants have arrangements with taxis for just this service.

Visiting Isola Bella also? Read about it here.



Saturday, March 21, 2009

La 43rd Annuale Mostra Nazionale della Camelia


What a difference a day makes...

Two days ago this bush was not blooming, and now, as if it knows it's the first day of spring, it is. So it was a perfect day to take myself to the Camelia Show in Pallanza, Verbania. I took the bus from Stresa, 2 euro for the 15 minute ride to Pallanza. La 43 annuale Mostra Nazionale della Camelia was held in Villa Giulia:

The crowd is gathered around the table because free aperitivi and champagne were being served. Champagne in crystal flutes. Delicious aperitivi, tuna in balsalmic vinegar, shrimp, bruschetta, tiny fruit tortas, each served in its own individual little ceramic tureen. You can't hear them, but just to the right was a three-piece ensemble, playing classic tunes. The day is a bit colder than it looks in this bright sunshine, but it didn't seem to deter people from coming. The view behind me was this one of Lago Maggiore looking towards Pallanza, with the Alps in the background:And then of course there were the camelias, over 200 varieties on display:










Friday, March 20, 2009

Gray Morning Walk...

Well, my mind and body have switched into vacation mode. I think long, researched posts may have to wait a bit. I have the time, but not the inclination. Nel frattempo, in the meantime, a few photos from my walk this morning, a grayer morning, sinister of rain, but also beautiful.

I headed west this morning, and due to a small injury l'altro ieri, the other day, I walked, no running. I went in the direction of the Zoo, where there also is the villa that it has been rumored George Clooney was looking at. The red brick path ends, unfortunately, about there, at the Stresa city limit. If I could keep walking, however, I'd soon arrive at the villa that Silvio Berlusconi did purchase, and where he visits often. Then I doubled back the other way... along the Lungolago come sempre, like always. If I had any say in the matter here, I'd continue the lungolago through the next towns, connecting all to each other this way, so that it were possible to run, walk, or ride between them.

I never use an iPod when I walk, never have, never will. It's always been my time to think and be lost in my own little zone. I never get bored, even with the same route, because it's never really the same, is it? Maybe that's why this morning I was thinking about the Greek philosopher Hericlitus, who some 2600 years ago said, "You can't jump into the same river twice..." Look here at the Lungolago post from two days ago and you'll see what I mean.


The rain never came, just as I finished my walk, the sun began to break through the clouds and dry up the mist. Perfect... sunshine prevailed for the remainder of the morning, when I headed over to the Friday Stresa mercato... Photos on that later...


Tuesday, March 17, 2009

The Lungolago


The Stresa waterfront proper runs for about a mile (2k) along Lago Maggiore, bordered on its western edge by the Stresa imbarcadero (read about it here) and on the east by the Carciano imbarcadero. On the north side are the grand old hotels of Stresa, The Hotel des Iles Borromees, the Regina Palace, La Palma, and others. More about them in another post. On the south, of course, is the lake. This is my morning walk… a brisk, 4k powerwalk or jog along the lungolago, the lakeside path, back and forth. Come along with me today...

The lungolago is a clearly designated, wide path made of red bricks. Just stay on this path and you can’t go wrong, even when it winds around one large villa. Although relatively straight, the path meanders just enough, the balustrades change just enough, the angle of the view is just enough different every few hundred yards to seem like a series of connected gardens. There are park benches all along the way, everyone probably has a favorite, I know I do.


If we get the urge to stop for a cappuccino of a gelato there are two cafés, both with plenty of tables on outdoor terraces. There are a few statues planted here and there, some memorials to citizens lost during the second World War, others of famous Stresiana, and some newly added ones. But there are two ruins I like, forgotten looking outside an abandoned villa. And always ever present is Isola Bella, which gets larger as we walk towards Carciano.


Carciano imbarcadero is my usual turnaround point. Here one finds another boat station, the loading station for the cableway, a mountain bike rental office, and L’Idrovolante Ristorante.


A passeggiata, a walk, on the lungolago is part of my routine here, as I think it is for many. Whether it’s for a before or after dinner stroll, a chance for a quiet conversation, or like me, a bit of morning exercise, it's a place to people watch, or to be people watched, or both...


The temperature today was about 20 degrees Centrigrade, the sky clear and blue. I walked long and fast, feeling that I'd earned the pasta I was planning to have later.




Tuesday, March 10, 2009

News Bites -- Little Bits Of News From Stresa


Just enough news to digest with a cup of cappuccino.

Stresa's mayor, Canio Di Milia, joins the blogosphere, becoming one of the first mayors in Italy to start his own blog, with which he plans to communicate with his constituents, record weekly video messages for them, and accept and answer their comments.

Sunday, March 8th marked the second annual Lago Maggiore Half Marathon, with over 2,300 participants leaving from Stresa and running to Pallanza. The winner was Ezekiel Jafari Ngimba, from Tanzania, with a time of 1 hour and 41 seconds.

Sunday also was the national holiday Festa della Donna, a day similar to our Mother's Day. The traditional flower to give on this holiday is the Mimosa; Stresa sponsored its own flower sale in Piazza Cadorna, with the proceeds benefitting research for multiple scherosis.

If you don't feel like it's spring yet visit the Camelia Spring Show, March 21 and 22, at Villa Rusconi in Verbania. The two-day show will feature over 200 varieties of the Camelia, both antique and modern, music, a children's garden, sales of products and books, as well as the introduction of a new women's fragrance, based on the scent of Camelias, grenadine, and citrus zest, called "Fiori di Stresa".

My bags are almost packed. For the next two weeks I'll be writing this blog from Stresa. I plan to attend the Camelia show, visit a few art exhibitions, taste food in several new restaurants, take many photographs, and generally report on what's happening there and what I'm doing. Check back often and keep me company...

Thanks, as always, to Stresa 2.0, www.stresaduepuntozero.blogspot.com, for my news information.

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Eau de Cologne -- Made In Italy!

Valle Vigezzo

Here’s an interesting item that I recently read… From valle Vigezzo, near Switzerland in the far north of Piemonte about 40 minutes from Stresa, comes proof of yet another bellissima cosa, a beautiful thing, that originates from Italy. Legislators in Paris recently settled a long-standing dispute regarding the invention of Eau de Cologne. And as the Italian Feminis and Farina families have long been claiming, their ancestors, Giovanni Maria Farina and Giovanni Paolo Feminis, have been shown, officially now, to be the true inventors of the original ‘Eau de Cologne’, the world’s longest continuously-produced fragrance. The newly discovered documents, from 1727, credit Feminis, a barber from Santa Maria Maggiore, and his nephew, Giovanni Farina, with the invention and ownership of the fragrance. Basically, they were awarded the patent on it.

Back in 1708, Feminis had written a letter to his brother. "I have found a fragrance,” he wrote, “that reminds me of an Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain". He was able to recreate consistently the formula, quite a difficult thing at that time, of the perfumed water made from grape spirits, oil of neroli, bergamot, lavender, and rosemary, and he called it Aqua Admirabilis. His biggest clients were the members of France’s royal family and their court. And it was the French who gave it the name by which it is still known today. Eau de Cologne, they called it, Cologne being their name for the German city of Koln, where by this time Feminis and Farina had relocated, to more easily produce and sell their product.

The name stuck, and in fact, was so popular that it spawned many copycats and counterfeits, with cologne eventually becoming a generic term for any fragrance produced with 5% or less essential oils. Ownership of the true formula passed through many hands over the centuries; through family members who inherited it and to the perfumers to whom they sold it. It started to become unclear who, in fact, had originally discovered it. Today, the French company Roger and Gallet owns all rights to the original formula, having bought them from a grand-grand-nephew of Giovanni Farina. Don’t confuse it with the Eau de Cologne produced in Koln by the Muhlens company under the brand name 4711; it shares the cologne name, but has a completely different scent. And the new evidence proves what family descendants in valle Vigezzo have been saying for centuries, that the scent is, indeed Italian.

And so there we have it. Another mystery laid to rest, interesting trivia for Saturday reading, and another accolade for Italy. And just think, if Farina and Feminis had remained in Italy, perhaps women everywhere would be wearing Eau de Vigezzo...?
This photograph, courtesy of Wikipedia, shows an original bottle of Eau de Cologne; the paper uses a French translation of Giovanni Farina's name.

The valle Vigezzo area is an easy 30 to 40 minute drive from Stresa. One takes the motorway for Domodossola, heading towards the Simplon Pass. The area can also be seen and enjoyed as part of the Lago Maggiore Express train tour, which makes several stops in towns of the valley, such as Santa Maria Maggiore, Druogno, Malesco, and Re, before entering the Swiss Alps.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

A Last Look At Winter

The famous Passo del Sempione, the Simplon Pass, which connects northern Piemonte with Switzerland, was closed today due to 37 cm of fresh snow that fell last night. But we know it's winter's last hurrah, as the extended forecast is calling for warmer weather. In Stresa, thoughts are already turning to primavera, spring. Shops are reopening and preparing for the beginning of the tourist season. Gardeners have cleaned up and replanted the flower beds in the piazze. And the National Camelia Exhibition in Verbania is only two weeks away. And so, I offer you one last look at Stresa in winter before we turn our attention and focus to spring.

The photograph above was taken in December 2008, on via Binda, north of Stresa. The buildings along the bottom are some of the larger hotels along the Lungolago. Isola Bella is large in the Golfo Borromeo, and smaller Isola Pescatore can be seen behind. 

Monday, March 2, 2009

The Stresa Imbarcadero

Today let's pretend we're going to take a boat ride from the main Stresa imbarcadero. We've already taken a look on this blog at the boat schedule (click here to see boat schedule post) and how that works. Now let's actually take a ride, so you'll know what to expect when you're there.

This building is the Stresa imbarcadero, the main boat stop. It's located at Piazza Marconi, in the center of town, at the end of via P. Tomaso. The River Cree that we already spoke about runs directly under here by the way, (you can read about that again here.) The office on the right is an important spot to know. It's the official Stresa Tourist Office. Inside you'll always find someone who speaks English well, and who is willing to help with any request you have. There's also a nice selection of free maps and brochures in various languages. Sometimes there are also free posters available, just ask... On the left is a coffee bar, quite nice for that cappuccino while you're waiting.

Go on inside the building. This building was at one time the Stresa Casino, so take a quick glance around. Are those columns made out of Baveno Granite? Take a look, maybe they are... Okay, go to one of the windows to buy a ticket. As you can see on the official site of the Navigazione Laghi, there are many tickets and combinations available. The ticket sellers should be able to help you sort out what you need. It will depend on the time of year, whether you want a one-way, round-trip, or multiple-trip ticket, many factors.

Walk on through the building towards the lake to wait for your boat. To your left will be this sign, listing which stops will be made by each boat, and at what time. As you can see, you can do quite a bit of traveling and sight-seeing easily in this way.

And don't worry... If you are still unsure which is your boat, or have any questions at all, there will always be a couple of boat employees like these on hand to assist you.

All aboard! That was easy, right? The other imbarcaderi will all look a bit different, but the procedure for you will be much the same. Just always be doubly sure to get on the right boat, and off at the right stop. I once did miss my intended stop and traveled to the next. Boat employees were helpful directing me how to return, but I did need to buy another ticket.

Here again is the link to the Navigazione Laghi main site and the boat schedule: www.navigazionelaghi.it/eng


One more thing to notice here are the boats themselves. The fleet consists of a 1904 steamship, motorboats, hydrofoils, catamarans, speedboats and even a couple of bidirectional ferry-boats. For any boat aficionados out there this should be of interest to you.

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