There can be no better way to get to know a restaurant than to visit its kitchen. And the best way to learn cooking techniques is to watch a master chef in action. Denis Croce, owner and chef at Ristorante Marconi, in Crodo, knows this, and has opened his kitchen on certain evenings for very special cooking classes, each of which focuses on one part of the meal, such as desserts, the primo piatto, or the secondo piatto.

When he needs some for a dish, he uses a portion of the frozen, reheats it in a saucepan, and adds a slice of butter to thicken it.

During the nine-hour flight I watched a fascinating short film documentary called A Portrait of a Lady. It documents the day in October 2006 when Supreme Court Justice Sandra Day O'Connor posed for six hours to have her portrait done by the 25 members of The Painters Group in New York City.

The idea was this... what if 25 artists all painted the same subject, at the same time, same context, a prominent public figure, what would their 25 different impressions be? And the answer is... very different indeed. As one of the painters put it, "Every portrait involves three people: the subject, the artist, and the viewer." Very interesting thoughts about subjectivity and impressions, and you can read more about the documentary here.

Then it made me think, I was on a nine-hour flight remember, and had lots of time to think, about everything I had just seen during my time in Italy, all the hundreds of photos I've taken. And how, of course, what I see in them are my impressions and mine only. Maybe that's what makes other people's photographs so interesting... a glimpse at something we overlook even while looking at the same thing, like looking through their eyes.

So with all that in mind, I hope you continue to enjoy the photos I've taken and that I share here, and my observations. But I know you'll make them your own. My goal isn't to make you see what I see... but rather, to make you look...

Okay. So I think deep thoughts on long flights. But then my thoughts had to turn to more practical matters. I had an extra suitcase with me (lots of souvenirs), my cell phone was completely uncharged, and while I had many euro in my wallet, I had exactly 2 U.S. dollars. And that's why I found myself renting a luggage cart for $3.00 with a credit card and sitting next to it on the floor of the airport talking on my phone which was plugged into an electrical outlet, with my $2.00 in my pocket, eating the chocolate Easter eggs I had bought in Italy, while I waited for a ride home, and thinking what a great holiday I had...

Q: Dana, If you are all about Stresa, you must have visited Baveno, just a few kilometers away. In Baveno on the at the main parking area where you can take the Ferryboat to the Islands there is a bar. It is call Bar l'incontro. Proprietor's Wanda and Gianni Mazzoni. If one were to stand at thier outdoor cafe seating and look directly accross the street there is a wonderful restaurant (Italian of course) I was wondering if you might know or recall the name. I working on a photo book I did of my trip there with my husband last October 2008 and I unfortunately forgot to make note of the name of that restaurant where we had dinner on the first day we arrived. I also visited the lovely city of Stresa. I too have my sights on living in one of the lakeside cities. There are all beautiful it would be hard for me to decide. I enjoyed Baveno as well as Stresa. If you know the restaurant I am speaking of in Baveno, I would greatly appreciate a reply and I thank you in advance for your time.


A: As soon as I saw the window I knew it was Ristorante Pizzeria Nazionale, and you describe the restaurant so perfectly! I have eaten there a few times, always in the front room that you mention. I like it a lot also; I find it very 'real', not touristy at all...

This reader is speaking about Ristorante Pizzeria Nazionale, located at Piazza Dante Alighieri, 26, in Baveno. They don't have a Web site at this time, and unfortunately I don't have a photo of the exterior. As this reader says however, it's well worth a visit if you're looking for an authentic and well-priced Italian meal. My first Italian pizza was eaten here... I remember well that it had radicchio and bresaola on it, a combination I thought strange at the time, but of course it was delicious. Its location at the Baveno imbarcadero also makes it an ideal choice if you're using either the boats or buses as transportation.

Cannolo di pasta brick con Ricotta Vaccina al fumo di ginepro e pomodoro confit su mosaico di verdure e salmone affumicato.
Two BIG thumbs up. We loved these.

Risotto Carnaroli “Acquerello” , tenuta Colombara mantecato al Blu del Monviso.
Two thumbs up.
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Okay. This is embarrassing. There should be a photo of Bocconcini di faraona alle erbe porchettati su crema di Pecorino di Pienza semistagionato here. But, um, we devoured them immediately when they arrived, forgetting to take a photo.
Obviously, two BIG thumbs up.
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Biancomangiare al Castelmagno con miele di castagno e pere.
Two thumbs down. The flavor simply didn't work on this layered dish of pears and cheese.

My Italian teacher has always told us that one day, just as if someone flips a switch, all of a sudden we'll just be able to 'get it'. He's speaking about Italian of course... And he means that the more we practice, and listen, and try, someday it will all click and come together. One goal I have each time I come to Italy is to measure how much improvement I can see in my comprehension of Italian and my ability to speak. This time, this is the first time I can go back and tell my teacher, it clicked! In markets, in restaurants, with friends and strangers, this is the first time I've had no trouble at all communicating, or understanding what I hear. Several times people have stopped me to ask for directions. And I knew the correct answers. And I was able to respond.

I'm a little excited about this. So please forgive me if I've been eavesdropping a bit on strangers now and then. Like these three adorable ladies who were sitting at the next table to me at La Fontana in Verbania.


All that transpired in Italian, naturally. How cute they were, and how cool for me, that I got it, it clicked! Scusatemi signore, per essere maleducata. I'm sorry ladies, for having been rude. I apologize for the eavesdropping, but I'll always remember your conversation.

The only one of the three Borromean islands that is not still owned by the royal Borromeo family, Isola dei Pescatori is charming and fascinating. And small. Very small. Piccolissima small. The island measures 350 meters by 100 meters. Now a part of the city of Stresa, Pescatore is also called Isola Superiore; make a mental note that you may see it listed in this way at the boat stations. It has been inhabited for about 1000 years, as has Stresa. Nowadays there are about 50 permanent residents, and while fishing is still a great occupation on the lake, the main business these days is catering to the tourists who visit each day.

Could you spend a whole day on this little speck of an island? While most don't, while most tourists jump on and off the ferries like local stops and also visit the other Borromean islands, Isola Bella and Isola Madre, in one day, if you enjoy the slow approach, like I do, and have the time, like I did, si, yes, I think it's possible to enjoy several hours here.



Choose a restaurant. Many of course specialize in fish, but you'll find the usual assortment of pizza, panini, and pasta as well. Casabella, located just to the right of the boat station, is a Michelin 2009 selection.

In the afternoon visit the Church of San Vittore, which you'll find high in the center of the town. It dates back to the 11th century. There are traces here of an even more ancient chapel that may date from the 9th century, when it was most likely built for an order of Scozzola monks. Browse through the souvenir and craft shops. Maybe have another espresso before catching an afternoon ferry back to the relative activity in Stresa. Be careful to check the departure times of the last ferry. If you miss it, you'll need to take a water taxi, which will cost a bit more.

Two days ago this bush was not blooming, and now, as if it knows it's the first day of spring, it is. So it was a perfect day to take myself to the Camelia Show in Pallanza, Verbania. I took the bus from Stresa, 2 euro for the 15 minute ride to Pallanza. La 43 annuale Mostra Nazionale della Camelia was held in Villa Giulia:

The crowd is gathered around the table because free aperitivi and champagne were being served. Champagne in crystal flutes. Delicious aperitivi, tuna in balsalmic vinegar, shrimp, bruschetta, tiny fruit tortas, each served in its own individual little ceramic tureen. You can't hear them, but just to the right was a three-piece ensemble, playing classic tunes. The day is a bit colder than it looks in this bright sunshine, but it didn't seem to deter people from coming. The view behind me was this one of Lago Maggiore looking towards Pallanza, with the Alps in the background:And then of course there were the camelias, over 200 varieties on display:

Well, my mind and body have switched into vacation mode. I think long, researched posts may have to wait a bit. I have the time, but not the inclination. Nel frattempo, in the meantime, a few photos from my walk this morning, a grayer morning, sinister of rain, but also beautiful.

I headed west this morning, and due to a small injury l'altro ieri, the other day, I walked, no running. I went in the direction of the Zoo, where there also is the villa that it has been rumored George Clooney was looking at. The red brick path ends, unfortunately, about there, at the Stresa city limit. If I could keep walking, however, I'd soon arrive at the villa that Silvio Berlusconi did purchase, and where he visits often. Then I doubled back the other way... along the Lungolago come sempre, like always. If I had any say in the matter here, I'd continue the lungolago through the next towns, connecting all to each other this way, so that it were possible to run, walk, or ride between them.

I never use an iPod when I walk, never have, never will. It's always been my time to think and be lost in my own little zone. I never get bored, even with the same route, because it's never really the same, is it? Maybe that's why this morning I was thinking about the Greek philosopher Hericlitus, who some 2600 years ago said, "You can't jump into the same river twice..." Look here at the Lungolago post from two days ago and you'll see what I mean.

The rain never came, just as I finished my walk, the sun began to break through the clouds and dry up the mist. Perfect... sunshine prevailed for the remainder of the morning, when I headed over to the Friday Stresa mercato... Photos on that later...

Today, March 19, Italy celebrates fathers and all those named Giuseppe. And I was fortunate enough to celebrate with a friend named Giuseppe, and a friend who is a father. Along with another friend and an adorable two-year old, we lunched at the recently opened Ristorante All' Osteria, in Carpugnino, a little bit up the mountain from Stresa. The restaurant is owned by a friend of Giuseppe's, a chef with many years experience. At lunchtime the restaurant was filled, as they offer a lunch promotion, but we were given some "special" dishes to choose from. Instead of an antipasto, a primo piatto, and a secondo piatto I chose to have only the antipasto and a secondo.

Now you see why I didn't have the primo piatto as well. I don't think it would have been possible. All the above was washed down with a house chardonnay, and bottled water from the Valle Vigezzo.

Just enough news to digest with a cup of cappuccino.

Stresa's mayor, Canio Di Milia, joins the blogosphere, becoming one of the first mayors in Italy to start his own blog, with which he plans to communicate with his constituents, record weekly video messages for them, and accept and answer their comments.

Sunday, March 8th marked the second annual Lago Maggiore Half Marathon, with over 2,300 participants leaving from Stresa and running to Pallanza. The winner was Ezekiel Jafari Ngimba, from Tanzania, with a time of 1 hour and 41 seconds.

Sunday also was the national holiday Festa della Donna, a day similar to our Mother's Day. The traditional flower to give on this holiday is the Mimosa; Stresa sponsored its own flower sale in Piazza Cadorna, with the proceeds benefitting research for multiple scherosis.

If you don't feel like it's spring yet visit the Camelia Spring Show, March 21 and 22, at Villa Rusconi in Verbania. The two-day show will feature over 200 varieties of the Camelia, both antique and modern, music, a children's garden, sales of products and books, as well as the introduction of a new women's fragrance, based on the scent of Camelias, grenadine, and citrus zest, called "Fiori di Stresa".